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Market
Cuisine: Californian
Neighborhood: Del Mar
3702 Via De la Valle
Del Mar, CA 92014 (Map)
(858) 523-0007
http://www.marketdelmar.com/

Recommended by 1 local

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Eats.It Staff Recs

 
  • Alice Q.   Alice Q.
    09/08/07

    Indulge yourself with some of the freshest cuisine San Diego has to offer.

    San Diego has no shortage of restaurants where you can drop a pretty dime to eat, but some might argue that it is short on “interesting” fine dining options -- a problem that distinguishes us from Los Angeles or San Francisco. Market doesn’t exactly solve this problem single-handedly, but it surely does help. With its indulgent and inventive combinations at relatively moderate prices, this place manages to please just about everyone, from die-hard local foodies to ordinary folks just looking for a good meal.

    Opened in 2006 by Carl Schroeder, the former chef of Arterra in the Marriott Hotel, Market takes its name from the fact that the chefs use local seasonal ingredients. While many of the items are indulgent and rich (foie gras, lobster, duck confit, prime filet and short ribs all made an appearance on a recent Saturday evening) there are opportunities to eat light for those inclined, with several seafood dishes, salads and vegetarian choices.

    Though I do have a slight connection with the restaurant, in that I have taken classes from James Foran, the restaurant’s pastry chef, they did not know this when we dined there and I’m confident it had no effect on our experience. On both occasions, the restaurant was packed. On the first visit it was so crowded we were forced to sit in the bar even though we had a reservation. As I understand it, they no longer seat patrons in the bar for dinner reservations, but reserve that for their lounge menu service. This isn’t a bad idea if you want to sample the cuisine and a couple of cocktails, but the atmosphere is a bit lacking. The dining room is on the other side of the bar, and has a warmer and more inviting atmosphere, but I still can’t help but think the restaurant itself isn’t laid out as well as it could be. There’s just something about it that doesn’t quite do the space justice. When the food is set down in front of you though, you’ll forget all about that.

    Chef Schroeder’s menu features familiar flavors with an upscale twist -- call it “modern comfort food.” Highlights among the starters include the Oyster Cobb Salad with crisp fried oysters, house-made remoulade, bacon and avocado; the Heirloom Tomato Salad, with fat wedges of sweet heirloom tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil; a bleu cheese soufflé served with apple accompaniments; and my very favorite, a perfect duck confit paired with grapefruit wedges and marmalade. Entrees include an over-the-top “surf and turf” of Brandt Farms filet and Maine lobster, Kobe beef “flat iron” steak, a miso glazed sea bass, and a milk-fed veal “two ways” -- as a house-made Bratwurst, and a scaloppini.

    Market’s pricing is in line with most fine dining destinations in San Diego, with starters in the teens, and entrees from mid twenties to high thirties. Portions are adequate -- even a bit large -- and presentation is artful but not overly precious. Though it is “fine dining,” it’s really the kind of place just about anyone should feel comfortable, with friendly but efficient service and interesting but uncomplicated food.

    In short, Market is just what San Diego’s dining scene needed -- and with apologies for the terrible pun, local foodies are eating it up.

    I have a connection with this business: I have taken classes at Grossmont College taught by the restaurant’s Pastry Chef, James Foran.. I've been here once or twice.
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