User Profile - SanDiego Eats It

Candice W

31 Eats.It Staff Recs

Mamma Mia Ristorante Italiano e Pizzeria, Pacific Beach
09/04/07 Dishing in the City
Everyone's treated, and fed, like family at this warm and charming Italian restaurant in Pacific Beach.

First-time diners at Mamma Mia might be caught a little off-guard when Francesco, the ebullient host and owner, swoops upon them shouting "Ciao, bella!" and going in for a two-cheek kiss. By the end of the meal, though, you'll want to jump up and smooch everyone responsible for your delicious eating experience. Cinzia, Francesco's wife, helms the kitchen and creates all the homemade Italian specialties on the menu, from appetizers all the way to dessert, featuring traditional favorites and lesser-seen treats. The setting, a cozy cottage with an interior dining room and two outdoor seating areas, also adds to the feeling of home. Mamma Mia's has become so instantly beloved that at night, reservations are recommended, although the lunch hours draw less of a full house.

I've sampled quite a bit of their menu and although everything is well-executed, I have my favorites. A southern Italian snack, panzerotti, makes a great starter to share, as these pockets of fried dough filled with mozzarella and ham are way too deliciously decadent to really finish solo. All preparations of calamari are nice, especially the stewed rendition in a rich tomato sauce with braised greens that is occasionally offered as a special. The ubiquitous fried calamari is done well here; a gentle frying method keeps the squid yielding and tender and gives it a light, just-crisp-enough coating. Relatively thin-crusted pizzas, topped by all variety of ingredients, are a tasty treat for a group and a deal at only ten dollars for a sixteen inch pie.

Eaters would be seriously remiss in skipping out on the pleasure of eating any of Mamma Mia's homemade pastas. Lasagna, so often doughy and heavily-sauced, here is a delicate stack of crepe-thin sheets of pasta just moistened by sauce. The cheese ravioli is supple and luscious, especially when draped in their incredible gorgonzola sauce and topped with toasted walnuts. Gnocchi are tough to do right, but here they are pleasantly chewy to the tooth and truly fine in a tomato sauce enriched with a bit of cream and tiny sautéed shrimp. Other pasta varieties, tossed with seafood or meat sauces, are all cooked nicely to al dente and heartier meat dishes, often featuring veal are also good. Whenever I come with friends, there's always a flurried passing of plates as we all try to get a bite of each other's dishes.

Another of Mamma Mia's merits is their BYOB policy, which enables diner to bring in special bottles to open and share. Desserts are also house-made, including smooth gelato in flavors of coffee, lemon, pistachio and more, plus nightly specials of cake and tarts featuring fruits or chocolate. The tiramisu is fluffy, light and not overly sweet, and an Italian dinner wouldn't be complete without a short pull of espresso to cap off the night.

My friends with kids love coming to Mamma Mia because it's not hard to get little ones to eat in a place that serves pasta, pizza and ice cream. The casual environment is great for groups and dates too, as it's easy to have a deliciously good time at this spot.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here five to ten times.
China Max, Kearny Mesa
08/27/07 Dishing in the City
Cantonese specialties are served up at this Hong Kong style Chinese restaurant in Kearny Mesa.

For the dim sum uninitiated, China Max is a good place to start. The Convoy Street restaurant, open for a few years but still a relative newcomer to the area, is moderately sized so there's not much in the way of aisle room for the traditional rolling dim sum carts. Instead, a glossy picture menu is provided at each table with a photo and description of each dish. You select the dim sum by ticking off checkboxes on a separate piece of paper before handing that to your server. This a-la-carte ordering method may seem unorthodox to some, but the organized style is great for newbies, to whom the fast-moving carts and stacked steamers of some larger Cantonese restaurants may be intimidating. It also assures, for the most part, that your dim sum will be heated to order, keeping everything fresh and hot.

My favorites from the dim sum menu, served daily for lunch, include fried turnovers made from glutinous rice with a pork filling, which arrive with crackly outer shells and steaming interiors. Won ton wrappers or translucent rice flour dough hold an abundance of sweet shrimp, and barbecue pork buns are soft and comforting with their honeyed burnished tops. Fragrant packages of sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaves hold savory bits of Chinese sausage, chicken, mushrooms and egg yolk. Adventurous friends join me in the rare indulgence of chicken feet in spicy-sweet sauce; another winner features mashed taro and pork, enrobed in a flurry of lacy, crunchy bits of batter. Each small dish, containing two to four items, costs an average of $3.50.

China Max also offers a huge list of lunch specials which include soup (sometimes an egg drop with corn) and rice. I like the shrimp with scrambled eggs and scallion, which I mix into rice for a filling-heavy version of fried rice. Flavorful and tender slices of beef, stir fried with ginger and scallion, are good too. Other selections include clams in black bean sauce, sautéed rock cod filet and kung pao shrimp. These lunch deal specials are also served later at night, after 9pm, along with a variety of noodles, fried rice and savory rice porridges.

Dinners at China Max are good too, especially their special dishes, which are a bit pricey but impressive in presentation and flavor. Whole steamed fish, showered in aromatics such as ginger, garlic, cilantro and scallion, is a simple but luxurious treat. I request the black cod or sable fish, whose delicate flesh almost melts on the tongue. Meaty, sweet lobsters or crabs sautéed in ginger and scallions are always happily devoured, and the Peking duck, served in two courses, is a splurge that's well worth it. The first course is my favorite. Crisp, rich shards of lacquered duck skin are sandwiched in soft buns that have been spread with a bit of hoisin sauce. Julienned scallions and cucumber are added for balance and crunch. These little packages are among the most delicious bites I've ever taken. The second course of chopped duck meat in lettuce cups is nice, but always a bit of a letdown after that first heavenly course. Other meat preparations shine too. Pan-fried lamb chops in a black pepper sauce, bewitchingly tender steak with asparagus and salty-sweet fried pork chops are all fantastic.

While China Max isn't my top pick for Chinese, it's certainly a very tasty option. The atmosphere, service and well-executed cuisine make it a nice choice for entertaining friends or family. It's also a convenient half-block away from Yogurt World, my favorite post lunch or dinner stop.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here dozens of times.
A.R. Valentien, La Jolla-Downtown
08/22/07 Dishing in the City
Of all the things to eat at the swanky A.R. Valentien, the cream of the crop is their take on a familiar food.

Sitting on the spacious, sunny terrace outside the Lodge at Torrey Pines' luxurious A.R. Valentien restaurant, you'd think the ideal meal for this setting would be some kind of artistically presented, ultra-gourmet dish. And while most food offerings at the Lodge are universally elegant and incredibly delicious, the crave-worthiest, headiest food dream-inducing, lunchtime or anytime meal is their down-to-earth yet totally over-the-top Drugstore Burger, which takes this everyday dish and transforms it into the ultimate rendition.

The Lodge's burger is firmly entrenched in my list of the top five San Diego burgers, and climbs towards first position every time I taste it. This burger isn't a delicately composed sandwich of lean sirloin and fancy cheese; it’s an unapologetic, unabashedly decadent, juicy mess of a sandwich and it's fantastic.

The Drugstore Burger, which Lodge executive chef Jeff Jackson created in homage to his down-home roots and burgers of his past, is a staple on the menu at the Lodge's casual Grill and Bar adjacent to neighboring Torrey Pines Golf Course. If you want to enjoy your sandwich in the plush and breezy center of the resort's Craftsman architecture and design, reserve a table on A.R. Valentien's upstairs outdoor terrace and mention that you plan to order the burger, as it's not listed on the more upscale dining room's menu but is available to clued-in diners.

Although a burger is humble by nature, this version isn't just ground meat on a bun -- the ingredients are all impressive and deluxe, including the highly flavorful and succulent Niman Ranch chuck used to form the mammoth, bun-straining patty. Crusty on the outside and luscious within, the patty extends way past the bun in all directions, necessitating a good grip with both hands. The burger is enhanced with chopped sweet onions and pickles, shredded lettuce, sliced tomato, cheddar cheese and enough mayonnaise to moisten everything. The sesame seed bun adds another layer of indulgence as it comes painted with a wash of butter. If all of that's not enough to send you into a complete food coma, the mound of excellently cooked French fries will finish the job.

The Lodge burger is naturally priced quite a bit higher than fast-food joints but is about on par with other "gourmet" varieties. It's worth every penny though, considering its size and quality, and the fact that if you finish this burger, you won't need to eat for the rest of the day. I requested it this year on my birthday and I've met many other people whose commemorate special events with this sandwich.

As in all areas of the hotel, the service on the patio is incredibly considerate and attentive, and although I reverently regard the hamburger, I've also enjoyed nearly everything I've eaten at the restaurant. Special occasion dinners are always memorable and a lovely reflection of the restaurant's devotion to seasonal, fresh foods and inventive but not too oddball creations. Produce, in particular, is treated with extra care and thoughtfulness.

If I can possibly turn down the burger at lunch, I am consoled by excellent mussels in a rich saffron broth and the homemade charcuterie plate with three different pâtés, including a very nice short rib terrine with fresh zucchini pickles. But as is usually the case involving so many of the world's best foods, simple treats like a well-made hamburger are the most memorable and satisfying.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here five to ten times.
Don Carlos Taco Shop, La Jolla-Downtown
08/14/07 Dishing in the City
Casual, cheap and tasty are words that aren't synonymous with La Jolla. This longtime favorite local taco shop is all three.

I will always have a fond place in my food memories for Don Carlos, the La Jolla taco shop where, years ago, I tasted my first potato rolled taco. It was during one of my brief flirtations with vegetarianism, which were always more casual affairs than committed relationships. Nevertheless, I was trying my best to be faithful and stay away from the temptation of meat. I mourned the absence of many favorite foodstuffs during this period of abstinence but felt none so keenly as the loss of my beloved beef rolled tacos, those crispy cylinders of salty late night munchie-bliss. What had once been a staple food of my teenage existence was now forbidden and I wondered what in the vegetarian realm could possibly replace these cheap and tasty bites.

Thank goodness for my wiser, worldlier cousin(doesn't everyone have one?) who swooped me up and drove me to her taco shop hangout so she could to introduce me to the edible wonderment of the rolled potato taco. Whereas the meaty filling of a beef rolled taco can sometimes be tough and stringy, the interior of a potato rolled taco is always soft and moist, a spicy mashed potato filling that contrasts irresistibly with its crackly fried corn tortilla shell. My cousin preferred them under a blanket of guacamole but I've always liked the tacos plain, with a bit of melted cheese on top and a generous dousing of hot sauce. I long ago went back to being a card-carrying meat eater, but the innumerable rolled tacos I've eaten in the past fifteen years since that first crunchy bite have all been of the potato-variety.

Most of the potato rolled tacos I've eaten in my lifetime have come from the Don Carlos Taco Shop. Open since 1983, Don Carlos was the site of many of my significant and enduring food memories. Beyond the potato rolled taco, I had my first bites of machaca and a California burrito at this tiny beach-adjacent shop. The shop has changed owners since those early days but it is still owned and operated by members of the same family, who have since expanded the once brief and basic menu into a multi-page booklet of traditional specialties and a selection of new items, including healthier, vegan-friendly fillings such as mushroom-tofu and soyrizo.

In addition to a long list of tacos, tortas, tostada, burritos, enchiladas and much more, Don Carlos also features a rotating offering of handmade tamales in flavors that include carnitas, turkey with green mole, and garlic three-bean as well as sweet varieties like pumpkin and peach-mango. The taco shop is still one of the only La Jolla spots to fill up affordably, with selected combo plates running $4 to $6 and hefty burritos starting at $3.50. Although their hot sauce isn't quite as flavorful as it once was, the shop retains its casual, comfortable atmosphere, and the rolled potato tacos taste as delicious and tastebud-thrilling as they did while eating and laughing in my cousin's car so many years ago.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here dozens of times.
Girard Gourmet, La Jolla-Downtown
08/07/07 Dishing in the City
This small takeout café brings European flavor to the heart of downtown La Jolla with their selection of gourmet sandwiches, sweets and more.

The best part of my workday has always been lunch -- and at no point in my life did I look more forward to my lunch break then the period when I worked in La Jolla and could walk to Girard Gourmet. I think I ate my way through the entire menu in my first month there; by the end of that time I’d found my most preferred items to rotate on the weekly eating schedule. Even though that was a number of years and a few jobs ago, I continue to stop by Girard Gourmet when I can for a taste of my favorites, which are thankfully still on the menu. It’s still as good as I remember and the friendly staff always make it a pleasant visit.

On any given day, a patient line of office workers and tourists snakes out the door of the narrow café. The whimsically decorated cookies displayed in the storefront window help to draw people in -- they’re the specialty of Francois, the Belgian owner and chef. He creates these custom sugar cookies to commemorate any festive occasion, from holidays to sporting events. Although all Girard Gourmet’s baked items are good, from flaky croissants with either sweet or savory fillings to buttery rugelach and muffins, it’s their homemade breads that keep customers returning week after week. All sandwiches are elevated to a gourmet level when they’re on these fresh, flavorful breads.

I alternate between their two main bread offerings, depending on my sandwich-filling mood of the day. If I’m craving Girard Gourmet’s chicken salad, rife with meaty chunks of chicken and crisp chopped apples, I like the salad sandwiched between thick slabs of the Eight Grain loaf. Hearty and rustic, the nutty-tasting bread seems very healthy but isn’t nearly as dense or as dry as other wholesome varieties. The sturdy slices of bread also give delicious foundation to their nicely seasoned tuna salad and an exemplary BLT with an extra addition of avocado.

Nine times out of ten though, I order a sandwich assembled on Girard Gourmet’s French/Italian bread, which resembles a ciabatta but with a more tender crumb and crust. I like getting loaves of this fantastic bread to go to serve with dinner, but it’s just as good eaten as is in the car while on the way home. The pate and smoked salmon sandwiches are both great on the Italian bread, but my favorite variation is the open-faced sandwich that features ham and tomato slices topped by a layer of cheese. This heavenly construction gets broiled in the oven until warm and gooey.

The sandwiches are incredibly filling, so I occasionally have to order just a half-sandwich portion so that I’ll have room for one of the house-made soups that Girard Gourmet is also known for. The options vary, but I’m always hopeful that either the light and flavorful Gingered Corn and Zucchini soup or the smooth Carrot/Ginger puree will be offered on the day I drop by.

The café is popular with the picnic crowd since the lush parks and beaches of La Jolla Cove are just blocks away, but it’s also favored by locals who stop in to pick up a prepared meal to warm up at home. Best among the prepared entrees are European specialties such as Beef Burgundy, Stuffed Eggplant and the Roast Duck, sold whole or in smaller portions. Flavorful sides such as Gingered Green Beans or German Potatoes complete the meal. If you need a dessert to impress the family, Girard Gourmet’s bakery department also does great cheesecakes, fruit tarts and layer cakes of all flavors.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here dozens of times.
Mama's Bakery & Lebanese Deli, North Park
07/31/07 Dishing in the City
A regular fueling stop for many locals, this North Park favorite is beloved for their fresh and tasty, well- priced food.

In an ideal world, every watering hole would have an adjacent eatery, a place to stop in for a cheap, filling meal before heading into the bar for a beer and a game of pool. Patrons of the Live Wire Bar at the corner of El Cajon and Alabama are particularly fortunate because Mama’s Bakery and Lebanese Deli is just next door. Dollar for dollar, Mama’s is one of the best and most delicious deals in town.

Located on a residential street in North Park within an old converted home, Mama’s is a casual, welcoming spot that does brisk business all day long. There is a comfortable covered patio for dining in, but I prefer to take their food to go as it makes for perfect picnic fare. I am always astounded at how well-fed we are for under $20.

Our bargain dinners start with an order of tender stuffed grape leaves, slick with olive oil, whose lemony tang is mellowed by their rice and vegetable filling. Cool tabouli salad, comprised of fluffy cracked wheat and an abundance of chopped herbs, is a refreshing appetizer, as is the fatoush salad, a mix of romaine lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers and green onions topped with seasoned pita bits and a lemony vinaigrette.

But my favorite way to begin the meal is to share a large order of falafel, crunchy-crusted outside, dense and nutty within. I could go vegetarian for these delectable, slightly spicy nuggets made with a combo of fava beans and chickpeas. A dip in tahini, creamy sesame sauce, brings the dish home. The falafel is also very good stuffed into warm, freshly-made flatbread along with pickles, lettuce, tomatoes and parsley. Another meatless winner is the double eggplant wrap filled with rounds of fried eggplant and earthy baba ghanouj.

Tasty meat options include the flavorful garlic chicken wrap, given additional flavor from a smear of pungent garlic paste; and both the chicken and beef shawarma wraps, filled with juicy marinated meat. The Lebanese Makanek or Armenian Soujouk beef sausages are also nice when tucked inside soft flatbread spread with creamy hummus. Only the kafta wrap, filled with seasoned ground beef patties, is occasionally dry and disappointing.

Zatar, a Middle Eastern spice blend that includes oregano, thyme and sesame seeds, is sprinkled generously over Mama's unparalleled flatbread dough, which owes its deliciousness to the domed metal sajj oven over which it's draped and cooked. This seasoned bread is the foundation for the Manakeesh Ultimate, a traditional Lebanese sandwich that's filled and rolled with a delectable combination of tomatoes, olives, mint and rich yogurt cheese called lebni. For a more substantial sandwich, you can add grilled beef or chicken.

A recent discovery, the Fool Mudamas, is a yummy fava bean and garbanzo bean stew that provides a savory dipping source for lots of warm pita bread. A cup of strong Arabic coffee and a bite of honeyed baklava to finish with is a pleasant sweet treat, but not entirely necessary after such a feast.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here more than ten times.
Flavor Thai Restaurant, Kearny Mesa
07/23/07 Dishing in the City
This casual but attractive Thai restaurant holds its own against the myriad of good Asian restaurants on Convoy Street.

A lush plot of beautiful rose bushes helps to disguise the fact that the building that houses Flavor Thai used to be a fast-food chain restaurant. Take a drive around to the back to the parking lot and you’ll see that the large drive-through menu stand remains, although it now displays glossy pictures of delicious-looking dishes from Flavor Thai’s menu, not tacos. Sadly, the drive-up window is not still in use but it would fulfill a personal fantasy to be able to order Thai food that way.

Once you enter the restaurant, you’ll soon forget about the building’s previous incarnation. The current owners have transformed the interior space into a warm and graceful room, with prints of Thai paintings and other nice decorative accessories that create a relaxing environment. Even if you’re just stopping in for a quick lunch, the decor makes your lunch combo seem just a little bit more special. The dining room is very comfortable but people also like sitting in the covered sunroom/patio area that looks out onto the roses, which block the view of Convoy Street traffic nicely.

The menu at Flavor Thai holds true to its name. I've made a handful of trips to the restaurant and all the dishes I’ve tried were boldly seasoned and highly flavored. The spice level is also stronger than most places I’ve tried. I’m a fan of heat but the medium hotness here is about as much as I can handle. The restaurant is a popular lunchtime stop and the lunch specials, served Monday through Saturday, are plentiful and varied, with about 20 dishes to choose from. The lunch combos start at $5.95 and include a cup of piquant Tom Yum soup.

My hands-down favorite thing to order is the Spicy Noodles, featuring tender flat rice noodles stir fried with lots of chilies, garlic and a choice of meat. Even if I don’t order this myself, I encourage friends to, so I can sneak bites off their plates. They also offer mock chicken and duck as optional add-ins. When I’m in the mood for milder fare, I like the Panang Curry, a creamy coconut curry made with red curry paste. There just never seems to be quite enough steamed rice to soak up all the tasty sauce. The Pad Thai noodles here are as good, or better, than most I’ve sampled.

A host of items are offered on the regular menu, including larger portions of the lunch plates and other Thai specialties such as Som Tam, a cool, shredded green papaya salad tangy with lime and infused with a serious amount of chili pepper. Some of the seafood dishes are also nice, especially the Siamese Catfish in a spicy-sweet and rich sauce. Desserts include Sweet Sticky Rice with Mango and decadent Fried Bananas with Coconut Ice Cream.

For some mysterious reason, there is a dearth of truly excellent Thai restaurants in San Diego, but the tranquil atmosphere, good prices and friendly service at Flavor Thai are enough to recommend it as a fair option when you're craving tastes of Thailand.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here three to five times.
Shanghai City Restaurant, Kearny Mesa
07/16/07 Dishing in the City
Yet another strip mall culinary treasure, this informal family-style restaurant serves authentic regional Chinese cuisine.

The dishes and flavors of Shanghainese cuisine may be a bit unfamiliar to those accustomed to dishes from the Cantonese restaurants that make up the majority of San Diego's Chinese food scene. But although I love food from all regions of China, my palate craves the tastes of Shanghainese cooking the most often. Thank goodness, then, for Shanghai City restaurant in Kearny Mesa, a place I have made regular and faithful pilgrimages to for many happy and delicious years.

It's possible to find certain Shanghainese dishes at various other restaurants, and Shanghai City does serve some more widely-known fare. But it's one of the few spots in the city to find authentic specialties little seen or tasted anywhere else. Though its dated decor may have seen better days, the kitchen here turns out food that is affordable, restorative and most important of all, very, very tasty.

Many traditional Shanghainese dishes feature a touch of sweetness that gives savory dishes a comforting and mellow flavor. Long braises are popular, featuring tougher cuts of meat that are "red-cooked" in a mix of soy sauce, sugar and spices until they are unctuous and meltingly tender. I've sung the praises of Shanghai City's ti pang, braised pork shoulder, to many friends, who become instant fellow devotees after just one bite of the rich, fall-off-the-bone-tender meat. When they taste the reason behind my passion for this pork, they become hooked just like me.

I've also had a longtime love affair with their xiao long bao, savory steamed dumplings whose tender skin holds a juicy filling of pork and broth. The restaurant also sells these soup dumplings frozen for at-home enjoyment. Another dish we always order is the stir-fried nian gao -- slices of glutinous rice cake, addictively chewy, in a sauce of soy and sugar with Napa cabbage and shreds of pork. I never have a problem finishing all my vegetables here, including tender, elongated stalks of water spinach or sweet young pea shoots sautéed with a generous amount of garlic.

A Chinese brunch is my favorite weekend activity, especially at Shanghai City, where their menu of snacks, soups and noodles offer serious food satisfaction. Served from 10am to 3pm on Saturday and Sunday, the brunch menu's best bets are the crisp, hollow-centered Chinese crullers with warm, soothing bowls of sweetened soy milk; and vast bowls holding a tangle of thick and toothsome Chinese noodles and chunks of braised beef shank in a five-spice scented broth. Small and crunchy Shanghai egg rolls and pan-fried scallion pancakes are also good.

Cold appetizers are very nice here, including surprisingly flavorful wheat gluten with shitake mushrooms; a nicely seasoned mustard greens and soybean salad; and a dish called ma lan tou, a finely diced mix of pressed bean curd and a Chinese green vegetable that is rarely seen on other menus.

Shanghai City also offers affordable lunch specials and a bargain late night menu, and they stay open until midnight. This restaurant is a comfortable, low-key place to sample the culinary delights of one of China's largest and most delicious cities.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here more than ten times.
Costa Brava, Pacific Beach
07/10/07 Dishing in the City
Flavorful small bites from Spain are on the menu at this dining and drinking oasis in Pacific Beach.

Named for the coastal region along the eastern side of Spain, Costa Brava is a haven from the hustle and bustle of Pacific Beach. Situated on a heavily trafficked block of Garnet Avenue, diners at Costa Brava are buffered from the street noise by a tall, ivy-covered fence that encloses the raised outdoor front patio. The Spanish music soundtrack, turned up just a touch louder than normal, helps too. A popular hangout for the local Spanish community, the restaurant often televises international soccer matches and features weekly entertainment, including live Spanish music and flamenco dance performances.

Costa Brava's menu offers two versions of paella, both locally beloved, and other main entrees such as braised ox tail, Basque-style fish, roasted lamb, and filet mignon with cabrales (Spanish blue cheese). The majority of their customers though, myself included, come for their appealing tapas menu. Of the few Spanish restaurants serving tapas in San Diego, this is the one I frequent most.

Although the interior of the house-like restaurant is warm and inviting, with wood floors, graceful archways, and a friendly, comfortable bar, I prefer sitting out on the patio during their daily happy hour, which runs from 4pm to 7pm. Tapas are the most fun when eaten with a few friends who are all in favor of sharing a variety of small plates. Before the ordering of food commences, we begin with a pitcher of the house red sangria, a refreshing, not overly sweet rendition. The earthenware pitcher comes with a wooden spoon to help scoop up pieces of wine-marinated apples and oranges.

Baskets of warm, crusty rolls arrive with a spread of creamy, garlicky aioli that is impossible to resist. The same rolls are used to make montaditos, mini-sandwiches filled with savory Serrano ham, Manchego cheese, fried calamari or a wedge of Tortilla de Patata, a potato omelet. These bites are only $3 during happy hour. An abbreviated list of Costa Brava's tapas are also offered at a lowered price, ranging from velvety-centered chicken or cheese croquettes to mushrooms sautéed in garlic and wine. Patatas a la Brava, roasted potatoes covered in a spicy tomato and chili pepper sauce mixed with garlic aioli, are another favorite, as are the Tigres, mussels breaded in a strongly-spiced coating and then fried.

When happy hour extends into dinner, we move on to a bottle from Costa Brava's all-Spanish wine list and delve deeper into the cold and hot tapas menu. Of the cold selections, marinated olives make for excellent snacking; more meaty Serrano ham tops toasted bread slices that have been rubbed with tomato and garlic. Salty Spanish anchovies season sweet-hot Piquillo peppers. Best hot tapas are a rich stew of white beans and chorizo; the shrimp, either grilled whole or sautéed in loads of garlic; and the warm bacon-wrapped dates, which have just the right marriage of salty and sweet flavors. We usually don't have one bit of space left for dessert, but on some occasions there's room for a bite or two of flan.

Costa Brava also operates a small market a few doors down from the restaurant, which sells an extensive selection of Spanish sausages, cheeses and other imported specialty food products.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here five to ten times.
Dede's Teajuice City, Kearny Mesa
07/03/07 Dishing in the City
This unassuming little restaurant tucked into a Kearny Mesa strip mall serves great Sichuan specialties, both fiery and more mildly seasoned.

With all the wonderful eating options up and down Convoy Street in Kearny Mesa, it's easy to miss hidden gems that don't get as much attention as some of the more talked about restaurants in the area. Dede's is especially hard to notice because of its small size and its location in one of the most crowded and hectic strip malls in the neighborhood. Dede's is one of a handful of Chinese restaurants in San Diego that specialize in spicy Sichuan cuisine, but I like the place just as well for the tamer, less fiery dishes available on their menu.

Although the outdoor sign says Dede's Teajuice City, I believe the name is just a holdover from the restaurant's previous incarnation as a boba drink café. The past owners were interior decorators; the restaurant has a spare, contemporary decor and is very clean and well-run. There aren't too many tables so at times there can be a short wait for a seat.

Many people come for Dede's hot pot buffet special, which costs $20 per person and is a great dish to share with friends. Each table is given a simmering pot of red-hot broth, colored and flavored by spicy chilies and fragrant Sichuan peppercorns, plus unlimited platters of sliced meats and seafood to cook in the stock. Napa cabbage, tofu and other garnishes round out the meal. The pungent brew causes almost instant perspiration and tongue-numbing, but there is something addictive about spicy foods that keep me going back for bite after bite.

Dede's offers a wide selection of other Sichuan specialties, including an incendiary dry fried chicken that's typically composed of more chilies than meat. Mapo tofu, a rich combination of soft tofu, ground pork and a spicy bean sauce, is delicious when eaten with steamed white rice which helps to temper the heat.

Most meals though, I stick to the milder side of Dede's menu, which is no less flavorful. The combination appetizer plate is the best way to start. You choose three selections from a variety of cold marinated appetizers, including a mix of mustard greens and soybeans, tangy cucumbers with vinegar, seaweed salad, and tender baby bamboo shoots tossed in sesame oil. Chunks of pork ribs are fried until crunchy outside but still juicy within and showered with chopped cilantro stems. Green beans get a double hit of savory flavor with minced dried shrimp and pickled vegetables. Moist slices of lamb is stir fried with onion and spiced with lots of smoky cumin.

Dede’s braised clay pot dishes are also good, such as the mixed seafood with tofu and the beef stew with radish. A huge dish of sautéed fish filets with bamboo shoots is soothing and a steal at its offered price. The crispy duck is meaty and succulent if a bit under-seasoned, and the huge bowls of noodle soups are a meal in themselves.

All in all, Dede's is a great place to satisfy spicy food cravings but the rest of their fare is what makes it part of my regular rotation.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here five to ten times.
JV's Mexican Food, Linda Vista
06/26/07 Dishing in the City
From cops to nuns and everyone in between, all walks of life frequent this casual and friendly Morena Boulevard taco shop.

I don't have a lot of occasion to be on Morena Boulevard, but if I'm ever in the neighborhood I have to stop into JV's Mexican for a taco fix, regardless of the time of day. Located in the crook of a tiny corner strip-mall, the parking at JV's Mexican can be maddening at lunch or dinner when the cramped parking lot quickly fills, but there are usually spaces to be found on adjacent side streets.

The inside of the restaurant space is remarkably vast and clean, with colorfully painted walls and lots of seating. The comprehensive menu covers traditional taco shop options but also dips into Tex-Mex territory and beyond. Besides the extensive offerings from the regular menu, there are often daily or weekly specials posted, and the friendly guys who work there gladly offer suggestions or accommodate requests.

Although most of JV's menu is fresh and flavorful, I tend to stick with the more standard fare. I like the lengua tacos, three steaming corn tortillas piled high with tender and meaty tongue, chopped onions and cilantro. A squeeze of lime and a dab of salsa is all they need to achieve their potential. The free salsa bar also offers plentiful spicy pickled carrots, which I eat alongside the crunchy rolled tacos to help convince myself that I'm eating a balanced meal.

Each of their homemade soups is ample enough to make a meal out of, since they come with a side of rice and warm flour or corn tortillas. Favorites include the beefy albondigas and caldo de res, but the best by far is the exemplary chicken tortilla soup -- filled with moist chicken and veggies, it has a restorative, simmered-all-day flavor.

The burritos run from the traditional carnitas, al pastor and juicy pollo asado to more unusual renditions, such as an enchilada-sauced Tex-Mex wet burrito and the grilled mushroom and pepper-laden chicken Philly burrito. The now-classic California burrito is also done pretty well here. They're all big enough to satisfy a very hungry person but some, including the foot-long surf and turf burrito, could feed a family. Stuffed to bursting with carne asada, shrimp, rice and guacamole, this burrito is so huge it requires two large flour tortillas just to enclose all the filling. Crispy quesadillas are also tasty, although I've yet to gather the courage to try the tuna melt version packed with tuna salad and cheese.

JV's Mexican is open until 2:00am on the weekends. My late night trips are usually in search of the healing qualities of carne asada-topped fries or nachos, or the comforting, savory sopes capped with beef or chicken. To drink, I go for the not-homemade but still refreshing aguas frescas, like the hibiscus jamaica or the sweet-tart tamarindo. There's often flan or rice pudding available for dessert. It all hits the spot at JV's Mexican Food, a taco shop that sometimes gets creative but doesn't neglect the original authentic fare, and where all eats are affordable, fresh and good tasting.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here five to ten times.
Phuong Trang, Kearny Mesa
06/19/07 Dishing in the City
At this award-winning and affordable restaurant, many return visits are needed to taste all the items on the seemingly endless menu featuring authentic Vietnamese cuisine.

Phuong Trang's modest strip-mall location and blind-covered doors belie its clean and spacious interior. The atmosphere inside the restaurant is very welcoming on the whole, making it an ideal place to take friends who may not be familiar with Vietnamese cuisine. They'll no doubt be wowed by the fresh ingredients and complex marriage of flavors that makes this food so enticing. Although I've eaten here many times, there are sections of the menu that I haven't even visited yet because I'm still stuck on my favorites, all of which are dependable and tasty. For lots of delicious reasons, this busy, family-run restaurant has made it onto many local publications' "Best of" lists.

The good eating begins on Phuong Trang's appetizer menu. Among the best options are the fresh and cooling spring rolls, featuring shrimp, pork, bean sprouts and rice vermicelli noodles encased in tender rice paper. Sweet and nutty peanut sauce is provided for dipping. Fried rice paper-wrapped rolls, filled with ground pork, carrots and cellophane noodles arrive piping hot. The crunchy rolls can be eaten plain or tucked into lettuce leaves with a few bits of fresh mint and cilantro for a delicious contrast of temperatures and textures. These vibrant bundles taste best when doused with a spoonful or two of nuoc mam, a staple condiment on the Vietnamese table, which blends fish sauce with sugar and a bit of lime juice or vinegar. Banh xeo, a lacy-edged crepe made with rice flour and folded over a mix of shrimp, pork, onions and mung beans tastes good when crisp but loses its appeal as it cools. The appetizer that is always the most quickly devoured are the succulent whole shrimp, lightly fried and tossed with garlic, salt, pepper and scallions. They are delectable, shells and all.

For a quick lunch, Vietnamese pho is a meal in a bowl. The heat of richly spiced homemade beef broth warms a toothsome tangle of rice noodles and meat. I usually go for the selection that includes rare steak, brisket, tendon and tripe. Additional interest can be added with the fresh flavorings served alongside, including basil, lime and jalapenos. In hot weather, a bowl of cool rice noodles topped with stir-fried lemongrass shrimp or fried egg rolls and seasoned with fish sauce is refreshing and light, as is the calamari salad with shredded green papaya and other veggies sprinkled with chopped peanuts and mint.

Dinner calls for more robust dishes like com tay cam, a one-pot meal of steamed rice infused with the savory-sweet flavors of ginger, garlic and onion. Sauteed chicken adds substance while dried lily flowers lend an earthy essence. Cubes of marinated beef arrive on a sizzling platter, accompanied by a large plate of fried rice. The meat is tender and tasty but the seasoning is fairly tame. Much more interesting are the dishes that feature a Vietnamese caramel sauce made savory and rich by the addition of fish sauce. Dark, sticky, and flecked with peppercorns, the sauce is irresistible whether enrobing chunks of pork spare ribs or moist catfish steaks. A bowl or two of steamed white rice is essential to fully enjoying every last luscious drop of sauce.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here more than ten times.
Nine-Ten, La Jolla-Downtown
06/11/07 Dishing in the City
This elegant yet unfussy hotel eatery serves special occasion food every night of the week.

Every meal at Nine-Ten is cause for celebration. How can I not rejoice when the food on my plate looks like a work of art and tastes like a masterpiece? The executive chef, Jason Knibb, transforms seasonal ingredients into this foodie's dream come true, and he has an especially magical touch when it comes to seafood. I've never had better mussels or scallops. It's hard to go wrong here though, no matter what you choose on the menu. The cuisine is creative but no dish is too precious or affected, it's just delicious. Nine-Ten is my pick for any special meal and is one of the best fine dining spots in the whole city.

Nine-Ten is located in the lobby of the Grande Colonial Hotel; lucky guests of the hotel must get spectacular room service. The rest of us can enjoy Nine-Ten's excellent food any time of day, since the restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. In fact, Nine-Ten serves a fabulous burger at lunch. It's worth the trip just for this incredibly juicy half-pound Angus beef burger, served on a homemade bun with first-rate truffled parmesan pommes frites.

The dining room is comfortable and warm but minimally decorated. There's also a sidewalk patio and a few tables on a small ocean-view terrace, but I prefer to have dinner at the bar, where the atmosphere is a bit more casual but the dishes are of the same excellent quality. Sitting on the comfy bar chairs also puts us in closer proximity to Mike, who mans the bar most evenings and whose mixology skills rival the culinary artistry that goes on in the kitchen. Some nights, friends and I will just come into the bar for drinks and snack from baskets of complimentary sweet and blue potato chips or platters of mixed olives. Mike is renowned for his unparalleled mojitos infused with blood orange or strawberry, but he excels at almost every cocktail.

When we treat ourselves to dinner at Nine-Ten, an absolute must-order is the dish of Bouchot mussels, which are prized for their small yet meaty size and sweet flavor. A ring of these delectable mussels encircles an airy but satisfying potato foam scented with saffron and highlighted by a tangy green sauce of chopped fresh herbs. Maine scallops are also given a simple but regal treatment. After being perfectly seared, they're paired with farm-fresh fava beans, morel mushrooms and a puree of garlicky ramps.

Nine-Ten's house smoked salmon is gilded with a quail egg, caviar, crème fraiche and preserved Meyer lemon jelly. Meat dishes are also very fine here, including lush port wine-braised short ribs and a prime flat iron steak served with cipollini onions. As a nod to his Jamaican heritage, chef Knibb seasons chunks of pork belly with Jamaican jerk spices and cooks them until moist and melting.

If it's possible to have room for dessert after all this amazing food, Nine-Ten will appease your sweet tooth with the ultimate chocolate dessert, a deep dish of half-baked chocolate cake, by turns gooey, chewy and deliciously yielding, topped with caramel and homemade ice cream. Versions of this dessert are seemingly offered everywhere, but it doesn't get any better than this rendition. If you prefer to drink your dessert, Mike makes a mean Irish coffee served with a dish of hand-whipped cream, or a key lime pie martini crowned with a rim of crushed graham crackers. Either way, you're golden.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here more than ten times.
Grab & Go Subs, Little Italy
06/04/07 Dishing in the City
Although this sub shop has multiple locations, their tasty sandwiches are a slice above all other local sandwich chains.

With outposts in downtown San Diego, Ocean Beach, Mission Valley and more, it's comforting to know that I'm never far away from a Grab & Go sandwich. Each of their seven locations throughout San Diego features the same basic menu, with a few variations here or there. I'm partial to the Little Italy location, a charming little orange house with a sunny outdoor patio and a constant line out the door. We sandwich-obsessed folk are willing to spend our lunch hour waiting for some humble ingredients tucked inside sliced bread, because at Grab & Go, a sub is much more than the sum of its parts.

Served on crusty Italian bread that is baked fresh every day, these hefty subs are loaded with all kinds of tasty fillings that make each sandwich a substantial meal. Featuring a selection of Italian meats, cheese and more, Grab & Go's subs are fresh, satisfying and crave-worthy. The only downer is that they close daily at 3pm; otherwise I'd stop by again for dinner.

I'm not a big fan of canned tuna but my favorite sub here happens to be the Tunisia, a savory mix of rich yellowfin tuna, tangy capers and sweet, crunchy red peppers, all bound together with a light oil and vinegar dressing and served on a toasted roll. You'll forsake goopy mayo-based tuna salad after just one bite. The Sicilian sandwich is a meat-lover's delight, piled high with Genoa salami, mortadella, capocolla, swiss cheese and a zesty chopped olive salad. I can sometimes get two meals out of this hearty sub, although it's so delicious that it's hard to resist polishing off the whole thing.

I'm also partial to the Hot Pastrami, a warm blend of meat, melted provolone cheese and spicy pepperoncinis; and the Hot Spicy Capocolla, filled with Italian cured ham that has been seasoned with hot peppers. Sliced jalapeno peppers add an extra punch. Vegetarians can find some love in the Grilled Cheese Feta, featuring melted provolone and feta topped with avocado and other fresh veggies and moistened with oil and vinegar. Grab & Go also does a soup of the day, including a yummy lentil, and a couple of fresh and filling salads that feature many of the sandwich fixings.

Grab & Go’s subs are made fresh and are priced around six dollars or less. There's usually a small wait to place your order but the line moves fairly quickly. If you're in a big hurry, there's also a selection of pre-packaged subs; though pre-made, they are still quite good, and make it a bit easier to just grab and go. It you have a few minutes to enjoy your food, find a seat on the sidewalk patio and watch the hustle and bustle of one of Little Italy's most lively and colorful corners. Either way, for a fast and tasty lunch on the run, there’s no beating Grab & Go.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here more than ten times.
Lupi Italian Restaurant, La Jolla-Downtown
05/28/07 Dishing in the City
This cozy Italian restaurant in Birdrock inspires loyalty from locals who cherish the owner's warm hospitality and the kitchen's seasonal, sophisticated home-cooking.

For a long while, the stretch of La Jolla Boulevard that connects La Jolla and Pacific Beach seemed like a culinary Bermuda Triangle. Restaurants would pop up and then disappear in the blink of an eye. I tried not to get attached to a place because I'd never be sure that the locale could sustain its continued existence.

But the scene in this quiet neighborhood is changing. New spots have opened and stayed open; older restaurants have been given a makeover. Now there's even a Taste of Birdrock event every summer that invites folks to eat and stroll on the seaside boulevard. Lupi has become a cornerstone of Birdrock's new renaissance, having gathered a steady following with their homey but refined fare, comfortable setting and congenial service.

A friend who lives in the vicinity first introduced me to the restaurant. She's such a regular at Lupi's that a plaque in her honor should be attached to her favorite bar stool. After a few trips there myself, I understand why she's such a devotee.

There are a few sidewalk tables outside but the best seats are inside in one of the two intimate and charming dining rooms. Raffo, the affable owner, welcomes regular customers by name and always seems sincerely concerned about everyone's dining experience. He's always glad to suggest a special dish or interesting wine, on or off the menu. Raffo also smartly changes the menu seasonally, which keep things fresh for frequent diners, although favorite plates are still often requested.

The housemade gnocchi with gorgonzola sauce is legendary. There's always a nice selection of various housemade pastas, including panzerotti, ravoli-esque pasta stuffed with spinach, ricotta and walnuts in a cream-tinged tomato sauce. The aforementioned excellent gnocchi are currently available with a luxurious meat ragu and fresh ribbons of parpardelle are tossed with a sauté of rock shrimp, tomato and garlic. The spaghetti is not made in-house but is delicious all the same – perfectly al dente with chunks of fresh sea bass and sliced fennel seasoned with garlic and chili pepper.

Heartier fare includes the rarely-seen turkey osso buco, a giant turkey shank whose dark meat lends itself nicely to a long braise with vegetables and wine. Another main dish features a meaty slice of pork loin pounded thin, coated in airy panko crumbs and sautéed to crispness. It's topped with a lemony arugula salad which provides a nice counterbalance to the rich meat. Well-prepared pizzas, risottos, salads and other seafood and meat entrees round out the appealing menu.

Always present is a painted ceramic jar of homemade cookies that Raffo hands out as a little after-dinner treat. The not-too-sweet biscuits are the perfect end to a meal when paired with a glass of vin santo or another Italian dessert wine. It's these small but thoughtful touches that keep people coming back to the restaurant, some on a weekly basis, for a chat with Raffo and the tasty but unfussy food from Lupi's kitchen.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here three to five times.
C Level Lounge, Harbor Island
05/21/07 Dishing in the City
Locals and tourists alike will marvel at San Diego's spectacular beauty from this outdoor bar and lounge.

Sunny afternoon walks along San Diego Bay are wonderful things. They're all the better when the stroll ends at C Level Lounge, where views of the downtown skyline and a stellar bayside location can be enjoyed with good cocktails and interesting bar food. This breezy lounge patio, which adjoins the Island Prime Steak and Seafood Restaurant, features an appetizer-heavy, more casual menu than the main dining room. I've had some disappointing meals inside at Island Prime but have usually been very satisfied with the offerings from C Level's outdoor lounge.

C Level's weekday happy hour, beginning at 3:30pm, is strong temptation to take an early leave from work, and for the price their food and drink selections are pretty unbeatable. A generously portioned vertical stack of velvety ahi tuna poke comes with crunchy taro chips and is only $5 until 5:30pm. Similarly-priced are a deep bowl of crispy fried calamari rings with a sweet and spicy dipping sauce, and a warm, oozy wedge of nut-crusted, baked brie served with a side salad. The $5 drink specials change daily but some of their specialty cocktails include excellent mojitos and sangria, potent mai-tais; and the Harbor Island Iced Tea.

When you go, make sure to find a prime seat along the front of the patio, where a glass railing is all that separates you from the water's edge. There are very few places in the city to get such an unobstructed and dazzling perspective on the downtown skyline and the Coronado Bridge, and such a close and intimate view of the boats that travel in and out of the bay. I think of my bar tab as a modest fee for what should be considered a tourist attraction.

If you're a conscientious worker and have to miss out on happy hour, try to make it to C Level by sunset, when the panorama gets even more breathtaking. To snack on while taking in the view, I like to make a meal of the tasty peel and eat shrimp, spiced with Old Bay seasoning and a side of crispy herbed parmesan fries. The spicy skirt steak salad with grilled onions and blue cheese dressing is also good. But avoid the lobster and artichoke dip, which we've tried twice in hopes that it would taste as good as it sounded on the menu and have struck out each time. A better lobster option is the lobster BLT, paired with a sherry-spiked lobster bisque. The seared ahi tuna sandwich, although ubiquitous, features a nice flavor combo of spicy seasoning on the fish and a slice of sweet grilled pineapple.

C Level Lounge is just a few minutes from the airport so it's a perfect place to bring out-of-town guests for a welcome toast or a farewell cocktail. But honestly, a bit of good weather is the only reason I need to make a stop at this waterside haven for some afternoon indulgence and relaxation.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here five to ten times.
Pomegranate Russian Georgian Restaurant, North Park
05/14/07 Dishing in the City
Sassy service, crazy décor, and hearty home cooking are the hallmarks of this popular El Cajon Boulevard eatery.

Pomegranate serves up the kind of stick–to-your-ribs food meant for warming the body and soul on cold nights, but most of the menu is so tasty that I’d be pleased to eat it any time of year. Featuring an assortment of eastern European specialties from Russia and Georgia,

Pomegranate combines familial, occasionally cheeky service and a funky atmosphere for a unique San Diego dining experience. Nearly every inch of the restaurant's white walls are covered with graffiti -- quotes and sayings left by customers and friends. The waitstaff is friendly, with a quirky sense of humor that extends to the joke-laden menu. They'll help you navigate through the unfamiliar food options or clue you into goodies not listed on the menu.

The lightest item on the menu happens to be my favorite way to start a meal at Pomegranate. The salad platter is a sampling of six chilled veggie salads, including a creamy potato salad with peas, an herby red bean salad, garlicky shredded carrots and a delicious beet slaw with walnuts.

Some of my friends like the khachapuri, a flaky dough stuffed with tomato and feta, but I'd rather move onto some of their delicious savory dumplings. Pelmeni are little meat dumplings with a spicy yogurt topping, and the varenniki, or potato dumplings served with a bit of sour cream, are akin to pierogies.

My grandma speaks a little Russian and makes excellent borscht so I always think of her when I have Pomegranate's version, with its melting chunks of beef and root vegetables in a long-cooked, richly-flavored broth. In warmer months, okroshka, a vegetable soup with a yogurt tang, gives cooling relief.

Here we come to the real rib-sticking stuff. Tender and juicy barbequed beef is offered with your choice of a side dish -- potatoes, piquant red cabbage, or the yummy kasha, a nutty cooked grain mixed with mushrooms and onions. The beef stroganoff is homey and comforting, enhanced with a seriously indulgent amount of sour cream. There's also a good vegetarian version of this voluptuous dish.

Pomegranate also serves up nice stews of chicken, lamb or beef, braised cabbage rolls stuffed with ground meat, and the weekend-only shashlik, grilled kebabs of marinated meat (lamb is best) which is definitely worth a try. Off the menu but still orderable is chicken enrobed in a luscious, walnut-thickened sauce. It's great with a side of roasted potatoes or the aforementioned kasha.

To drink, there is an assortment of interesting Russian beers and wines, but somehow drinking vodka somehow seems more appropriate here. The unconventional way in which it's served is fun too. They present you with a bottle of vodka and a glass and you pay by every inch that you drain from the bottle. If you've managed to save room for something sweet, there are a few sugary, rich cakes but I like the somewhat less decadent Babushka's Delight, a warm baked apple stuffed with dried fruit and nuts and served with ice cream.

The only drawback here is that an extra surcharge is added if you want to pay by credit card, so save yourself the hassle and bring cash. Everything on the menu is priced fairly moderately, so only a few bills are needed for a satisfying meal at this neighborhood gem that brings a taste of the old world to new fans.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here five to ten times.
Chin's, Miramar
05/07/07 Dishing in the City
Don't let the location fool you, some the best, most authentic Chinese cuisine that San Diego has to offer calls a Miramar Holiday Inn home.

Sometimes good food can be found in the most unlikely of places. Housed in what used to be a typical hotel restaurant, judging from the refrigerated cake case and buffet counter that still remain, Chin's decor retains the sort of bland, mildly-upscale chain restaurant look that, while not unpleasant, doesn't usually forecast a delicious eating experience. Here's where things go topsy-turvy though, because the food at Chin's can be unusual, unique, delectable and completely incongruous with its surroundings.

Although their regular lunch and dinner options are good, my favorite dishes at Chin's come off the special weekend lunch menu, featuring lots of enticing and hard-to-find Chinese breakfast/brunch items. There's only one small glitch, as most of the tastiest dishes are listed on a Chinese language-only menu, but you can't let something like that keep you from a good meal. The manager will usually assist you in ordering, and don't be sky about asking other tables what they've got if it looks good. I'm lucky to have friends and family who will kindly translate the menu for me, and grateful that I can speak a bit to get by – at least enough to order my favorites.

Much of the list features Shanghainese cuisine but there are also many spicy Szechwan dishes, as well as Taiwanese and other regional specialties. Wherever the origin, everything is pretty darn good. Must-haves include the Shanghai pastry, rounds of crisp and flaky sesame seed-sprinkled pastry surrounding savory shredded turnip filling. Shanghai dumplings, or xiao long bao, vary in quality but on good days they are tender, juicy and rich with pork flavor.

Szechwan spicy dumplings swim in a delicious hot sesame sauce that has a touch of balancing sweetness. Five spice powder flavors the marinades for three cold appetizers, a sliced beef shank, a roasted duck and a smoked fish that are great for snacking on throughout a meal. Hot and sour soup, pungent and flavorful, bears little resemblance to the gloppy concoctions found elsewhere. Jellyfish, crunchy and refreshing, offer a cool counterpoint.

Crispy you tiao, Chinese crullers, are good if a little overdone for my preference. Still, I'm not one to reject any freshly fried food item. Shao bing, a baked sesame bread with a crunchy exterior and soft middle, is often filled with beef and cilantro for a Chinese take on a sandwich. These are both eaten in conjunction with warm bowls of soybean milk, equally comforting in both sweet and savory styles.

If we have room, and we usually do, we'll move on to main dishes of sweet, sticky Shanghai-style spare ribs and fried noodles softened by a seafood and vegetable stir fry. Sauteed nian gao, rice cakes wok'ed with pork and cabbage are toothsome, with a nice chew. Lettuce-like Chinese greens, delicate and sweet, are delicious and fragrant with garlic.

By this time, not a bare square inch of the tabletop's lazy susan can be seen and it's time to call a halt to our weekend feast. We manage to save a bit of space for the complimentary dessert, black sesame-filled rice balls in a sweet soup, and think about the other twenty items on the menu that we'll have to order next time.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here five to ten times.
Zion Market, Kearny Mesa
04/30/07 Dishing in the City
This clean, well-stocked Asian market sells top quality produce, meat and seafood, but also offers the components of great feasts with no cooking necessary.

I get a thrill out of grocery shopping. What some consider a chore, I regard as a pleasure. I once saw a travel program about a grocery store in Japan where customers ride in a roller coaster train and cruise on a track through the aisles, shopping and selecting goods off the shelves as they go. It looked like my kind of amusement park ride.

My favorite stores hold a treasure trove of unfamiliar but appealing looking items that pique my curiosity for new tastes. A trip to a good grocery store is a chance to marvel at the simple beauty of ripe produce, and to examine intriguing meats, seafood and mysteriously packaged snacks. It's additionally an opportunity to eat, and in some cases eat very well. I've been going to Zion Market in Kearny Mesa for years to procure Asian ingredients for cooking at home, but the store also offers fantastic Korean food that requires minimal-to-no preparation before consumption, and that is sometimes a beautiful thing.

Zion Market has a small food court within its walls, but I prefer to assemble a meal from the grocery section itself. The refrigerated area features a kaleidoscope of Korean banchan, small side dishes that are traditionally served alongside meats and main dishes but can become a delicious meal on their own when accompanied by cooked rice. Cool salads of bean sprouts or spinach scented with sesame oil share shelf space with pungent pickled cucumbers and radishes spiked with red chili paste.

The adjacent hot food counter offers savory pancakes loaded with julienned vegetables bound by a mung bean batter. Kimbap, a snack similar to sushi, consists of a variety of cooked ingredients wrapped in rice and seaweed paper, and is the perfect lunch on the go. Still-warm trays of chapchae, translucent noodles stir-fried with vegetables and beef, are dressed with a slightly sweet soy sauce, and nubby sections of fried squid regain their crispness with a gentle reheating. Pre-marinated sliced beef or short ribs, fragrant with green onions and garlic, only require a quick sear on the grill to make them ready to be devoured.

To drink, Zion Market stocks already-chilled cans of refreshing Korean brews such as Hite and OB, plus a good selection of soju, a potent liquor distilled from a variety of grains. Also delicious is boricha, a tea made from roasted barley that can be drunk hot or cold.

I always have to end with something sweet and Zion's bakery section features a bounty of fresh and tempting treats. Giant hunks of dense, moist carrot cake, airy and light sponge cakes in all sizes, and crumbly nut cookies swathed in powdered sugar are all delectable, but most heavenly are the palm-sized tuile cookies laden with sliced almonds. Half the cookies are usually gobbled up before I reach home.

A shopping trip to Zion Market is a feast for the eyes, and their assortment of already-prepared foods make it a convenient and excellent place to find treats for the stomach.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here dozens of times.
Cafe Chloe, East Village
04/23/07 Dishing in the City
The charming decor and delicious modern bistro menu at this stylish cafe make every meal a reason to celebrate.

I'm so thankful for the night that Café Chloe came into my life. I remember it well -- a friend had just moved into the lofts adjacent to the restaurant and she arranged for a group of us to meet for dinner. We sat at the only table large enough for six people, in a cozy room lined with photographs and artful arrangements of artichokes and persimmons, and had an eye-opening meal. The food was beautifully presented but not too fussy, and eminently delicious. That evening's meal was the first of many subsequent joyous visits.

If restaurants had a gender, Café Chloe would be a mature but youthful lady, effortlessly stylish but without pretense. Every woman I know, myself included, is more than a little in love with this place. Some men dismiss the restaurant as being a bit foo-foo, but well-informed guys know that Chloe is where to go for one of the best dining experiences in town.

There are few things that can lure me from my cozy cocoon on lazy weekend mornings but the anticipation of food and drink at Café Chloe is enough to get me up and out. Brunches at Café Chloe must start with a bottomless cup of Illy coffee followed by one or more mimosas, depending on your plans for the day. The pomegranate mimosa is good but the lavender-lemon variation is even better. My friends and I practice pragmatic indulgence by ordering a bottle of sparkling wine and an entire carafe of tart lavender syrup to make our own cocktails.

My favorite brunch dish, here or anywhere, is the savory custard of the day, an oval ramekin of warm, tender egg custard flavored with a changing selection of ingredients. Some days the rich, creamy mixture is lightened with diced tomato and spinach, but I like it most when it's studded with oozy pockets of melting cheese and salty bits of ham. Slathering the unctuous custard on toasted brown bread is just about the best way to start a day.

Dinners here are no less special, with some of the bistro genre's greatest hits from saffron-scented steamed mussels to a riff on salad lyonnaise with pancetta, poached eggs and brioche croutons. The smoked trout and apple salad with fingerling potatoes is a nice contemporary but classic dish. Comfort food doesn't get any more satisfying than the macaroni baked with meaty chunks of pancetta in a cheesy sauce punctuated by pungent gorgonzola, or the chicken and wild mushroom vol-au-vent, a sophisticated pot pie. Whatever you order, be sure to also share a cone of skinny shoestring fries with a trio of dipping sauces, including a pleasantly sharp watercress aioli.

The daily lunch menu is an abridged version of the evening menu, with the addition of a few open-faced sandwiches. Café Chloe also serves weekday breakfast starting at 7am, and a daily afternoon tea with sweet and savory snacks.

Even though I work a few blocks from the restaurant, I try to save my trips there for special occasions, days off and weekends. I don't think I could ever tire of eating at Café Chloe but I love it too much to take that chance.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here dozens of times.
The Liar's Club Bar & Grill, Mission Beach
04/16/07 Dishing in the City
A neighborhood bar of the very best kind, this relaxed and casual spot offers first-rate bar food and a stellar line-up of artisan microbrews.

I'm usually very diligent about taking pictures of my food everywhere I go, partly for use in future recommendations but mostly because I'm just kind of dorky that way. Somehow though, in all my recent trips to The Liar's Club, I haven't managed to get any food photos because by the time my meal arrives I'm usually having too good of a time to remember to bring out my camera. Dining with friends who pounce on the food like frenzied animals before I can manage to take a shot also makes things difficult.

But even though I have no photographic examples to show for it, the food alone at the Liar's Club is enough to recommend the place. The incomparable beer selection, top-notch jukebox and altogether friendly service elevate it to one of the best places to eat, drink and be merry in San Diego.

The menu is surprisingly tasty and creative, considering that it's turned out from a tiny open grill tucked into a corner of the bar. There's a seared ahi sandwich with wasabi mayo and red chile sauce and a fried catfish dinner served with chipotle aioli. Sweet potato fries are hand-cut into wide, irregular chunks more suited to knife and fork than finger-snacking, but nonetheless delicious with their drizzle of maple-sweetened sour cream.

Even more irresistible are the perfectly battered onion rings, their sweetness enhanced by spicy barbeque dipping sauce. The burgers are also very fine here: juicy half-pound patties in various flavorful incarnations, from Jamaican Jerk marinade to hot-sauce spiked Ranch dressing.

But the most mouthwatering item on the menu is the Fuego Steak Melt, tender slices of beef topped with an incendiary combination of three different roasted chilies and pepper jack cheese, served on toasty jalapeno cheese bread. If the phrase, "guilty pleasure", was listed in the dictionary, you'd see a photo of this sandwich. There are salads on the menu but I've never seen anyone order one. This is definitely not the place to count calories.

Although there's a fully stocked bar, beer is king here. The Liar's Club features close to twenty craft beers on tap, any one of which is good enough to handily dethrone watery "macro-brews" such as Budweiser. Handles from the area's best local breweries share space with great Belgian beers and other artisan drafts. The variety is almost overwhelming, but servers here are very beer-savvy and can usually steer you towards the right selection or offer free tastes to help you decide. My beer knowledge and appreciation has grown exponentially since I started coming here. Friday nights are especially happy since all local beers are on special at only $2.50 a pint.

The decor at the Liar's Club consists of an aged dart board, a well-used arcade game and a smattering of old concert posters, and the volume of the music can sometimes be blaringly loud. You can program your own custom soundtrack by plugging a few dollars into the renowned jukebox that holds classic tunes from favorites like The Kinks and T. Rex.

My only issue with The Liar's Club is that parking is sometimes a problem, especially on weekends when Mission Boulevard is crawling with college kids. Luckily, the rowdy party crowd tends not to frequent Liar's Club, probably because the bar's last call is at a relatively early 12am. But for beer aficionados and people that enjoy friendly folk and simple but satisfying food, this place is just about as good as it gets -- and that's no lie.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here five to ten times.
Parallel 33, Mission Hills
04/09/07 Dishing in the City
This stylish space offers two dining experiences in one: a charming, quiet restaurant and a cool and hip lounge, both serving well-executed fusion cuisine.

Parallel 33 has been a favorite spot of mine since it opened at the height of the fusion-food boom. I'm usually not a fan of very eclectic menus -- they're too often a random collection of passable dishes that don't make much sense and confuse the palate. But Parallel 33's menu features a legitimate connection that weaves through their line-up, a greatest-hits compilation of tastes from the different countries that share San Diego's latitude, the 33rd parallel. In the capable hands of chef-owner Amiko Gubbins, who first honed her fusion cooking skills at Japengo in La Jolla, what could be a global disaster is more often delicious harmony.

I most often like to make a meal of a few of Parallel 33's starters, shared with friends. Some variation of tuna tartare is now ubiquitous, but it doesn't get any better than Amiko's version of ahi poke, in which silky cubes of pristine tuna are mixed with a fine dice of Asian pear, mango and red onion for delectable sweetness and texture. The poke is dressed with a spicy wasabi sauce and tossed with black sesame seeds, before it's gently pressed into glistening cubes and rested on wonton skins and a small bed of seaweed salad. This is one of my top ten desert island dishes.

Also great are the crunchy yet meaty calamari, crusted with a curried coating that gives more savory warmth than heat. The generous portion of squid sits atop a tangle of Asian slaw, surrounded by a creamy dipping sauce and minted mango salsa. The richness of duck confit adds substance to a tasty salad of grapefruit, jicama, red cabbage and candied pecans drizzled with spicy vinaigrette.

If my appetite necessitates an entrée, I usually go for the juicy grilled double-thick pork chop, complemented by dried fruit chutney and an apple-ginger reduction; or the mellow Moroccan lamb tajine, served with fluffy couscous and tender vegetables.

Parallel 33's main dining room couldn't be more cozy and intimate, with architectural and design elements that combine touches of the exotic with clean contemporary style that keeps the look from sliding into kitsch. The original space is great for quiet dinners or dates but my friends and I are usually drawn to the adjacent Blue Lotus Lounge, which has its own entrance and bar but shares the same menu and kitchen. The soothing blue tones and minimal decor create a relaxed atmosphere that encourages all-night lounging and eating, enhanced by a few well-stirred libations.

Blue Lotus’ bartenders have been using pomegranate juice as a mixer since before it was cool. I still enjoy their signature pomegranate martini, the Tears of the Prophet, and the equally appealing pomegranate margarita. Thursday nights and occasional Fridays feature live DJ-spun music but the crowd never gets too Gaslamp-like, in type or number.

I'm sure that Parallel 33's dessert menu is very fine, but I've pledged myself to their medjool date madeleines and have never strayed. The moist, rich cakes arrive still-warm from the oven and are gilded with sticky toffee sauce and ethereally creamy vanilla rose gelato. I fall in love all over again with every bite.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here more than ten times.
Dumpling Inn, Kearny Mesa
04/02/07 Dishing in the City
This small, family-style restaurant offers a taste of Northern Chinese cuisine, including a variety of homemade dumplings and noodles.

There's a reason why so many of the great cuisines around the globe feature some sort of dumpling -- it is one of the world's best comfort foods. Dumplings are also very time-consuming and labor-intensive to make from scratch. While I have cherished memories of sitting with relatives, happily chatting while folding dough over filling, I am awfully glad that I've found Dumpling Inn on Convoy Street, where I can relieve my dumpling cravings and forego all that work.

Dumpling Inn is a fine example of the culinary treasures that can be found in strip malls. Located in the back corner of the mini-mall adjacent to Jasmine Restaurant, the tiny restaurant only seats twenty to thirty people. The small space results in occasional lines at peak meal times, but turnover is brisk and you won't be waiting for long. The interior of the restaurant is very simple and the décor non-existent, but it's the food that shines.

The focus of their menu is on cooking from Northern China, where the climate is more suited to growing wheat than rice, and so much of the region's starches come in the form of dumplings, noodles and buns. My favorite dish from the homemade dumpling menu is the pan-fried pork pot stickers, whose tastiest features are their irresistible crunchy bottoms. They arrive at the table piping hot and I always burn my mouth in my eagerness to take a bite.

Boiled dumplings, with tender skins surrounding fillings of savory pork or a mixture of fish and chives, are also good, especially when dipped in a custom concoction of condiments from the array offered at each table. My personal combo consists of soy sauce, a bit of sesame oil and a generous glug of hot chili oil. A little vinegar in the mix is also nice. The steamed pork buns, served with slivers of ginger, are not authentic Northern fare, but are nonetheless very tasty as well.

A bowl of wonton or homemade noodle soup makes for a filling lunch or a quick dinner, and the menu also features a variety of tasty stir-fried noodle dishes. Every now and then I get a craving for their dan dan noodles -- long, toothsome noodles mixed with a spicy and sweet sesame sauce.

Dumpling Inn also serves some delicious meat and seafood dishes. Worth a try are the spicy eggplant and pork in garlic sauce and the stir-fried lamb with green onions, and don't pass up the salt and pepper fish if it's on the specials board. They also do a few slightly non-traditional dishes that are quite appealing. My friends with less curious palates are totally addicted to the spicy honey glazed shrimp and the kung pao seafood with shrimp, sea bass and calamari.

Dumpling Inn is an affordable spot to eat well, as most of their dishes run under ten dollars and are ample enough for sharing. Go with a group who likes to eat family-style and feast away. There's no liquor license but you are allowed to bring your own here. Hot tea with Chinese food is great, but Tsingtao beer is even better.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here more than ten times.
Bread on Market, Downtown-Gaslamp
03/26/07 Dishing in the City
This gourmet bakery and cafe provides artisan breads, sandwiches, homemade soups and more to downtown residents and professionals.

Working in an office downtown means that every lunch is an opportunity for a new food adventure. My favorite work friend and I cherish our lunchtime walks, which break up the workday nicely and provide us with the chance to seek out the best food options in our neighborhood. Try as we might to sample something different on every outing, our feet (and stomachs!) often lead us to Bread on Market, one of our first and most cherished discoveries.

Bread on Market serves breakfast and lunch, but they are primarily a working bakery, turning out fresh artisanal loaves daily, as evidenced by the stack of flour bags near the front door. Their European-style bread has become so renowned that they now provide bread to some of San Diego's best restaurants, including The Linkery. The selection includes French baguettes, olive bread, challah, raisin-walnut, and more, which you can purchase at the café to take home.

Sandwiches made with Bread on Market’s focaccia have become weekly, if not twice-weekly, cravings. The deep dish focaccia, taller and more supple than traditional versions, is sliced vertically so that its tender, pillowy interior is the first thing your mouth comes into contact with. Its golden crust is scented with rosemary and olive oil and adds a pleasant chew to the sandwich. The focaccia is the star of Bread on Market's signature sandwiches which include the Classic Turkey, slathered with sweet mustard and the stellar BLT, stacked with thick cut, maple cured bacon. If the special meatloaf sandwich on focaccia is offered, don't pass it up.

Bread on Market’s Francese, a deliciously crusty and chewy Italian roll, comes with rich butter, jam and coffee for a country-style breakfast, or filled with fresh mozzarella, roasted peppers, olives, and arugula for the lunchtime Tuscany sandwich. The menu also features four kinds of gourmet salads and daily homemade soups, including Tomato Basil, Corn Chowder or Chili. If you're in the mood for a few different tastes, you can choose a combination of soup, salad and/or a sandwich for around $6.50.

I'll sometimes stop here in the morning before work to caffeinate and fortify myself with a bowl of their house made granola with yogurt, or the decadent, custardy French Toast made with cranberry bread and drizzled with maple syrup. At lunch, local papers and board games encourage lingering, at least long enough to sample something sweet from Bread on Market's pastry offerings. Chocolate chunk cookies and Raspberry Bars are good and there's always some variety of cupcake to tempt me.

The relaxed, friendly service and comfy seating on the outdoor patio always gives me and my coworker reason to extend our lunch hour by a few precious minutes, long enough to people-watch and soak up the sun before we prepare ourselves for the walk back to the office.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here dozens of times.
Zenbu, La Jolla-Downtown
03/20/07 Dishing in the City
If you're looking to find a little downtown atmosphere and attitude in staid La Jolla, check out Zenbu Sushi Bar and Restaurant.

Tucked into an unassuming shopping square in the heart of The Village lies this seductive spot, where electronic music pulses inside a sexy darkened space lit with votive candles, and the crowd is noticeably younger and flashier than you'll usually see in this part of town. There's always plenty of eye candy to be found outside on the heat lamp-lined patio, inside the bamboo-accented dining room, and behind the sushi bar, which is manned by handsome chefs who seem to be performing for the crowd from their elevated loft area.

But there is substance to be found behind the glittery facade at Zenbu. This isn't necessarily the place to go for truly traditional, refined sushi; I have other favorites where I go to splurge on the omakase (chef's menu). However, the restaurant definitely cares about offering fresh, quality seafood. The owner, Matt Rimel, also owns several commercial fishing boats, so you’ll often find the day’s catch on the menu that evening. Many of their dishes offer innovative twists on the standards. Sushi chef Tim Johnson melds classic Japanese ingredients with inventive techniques and a touch of rock star glamour.

I always start with the Calamari Salad, a mix of tender greens and translucent shavings of green papaya and cucumber, dressed with light vinaigrette and topped with a generous portion of crisp calamari. Cutely named rolls are very popular here, including the Big Pete, a spicy scallop roll topped with Cajun seared tuna, and the Jackie Chan, a flavorful mix of crab and cucumber topped with tuna and avocado. But the stars of the show are Zenbu’s impeccably fresh fish. A special treat is the local live sea urchins that are staged whole on a bed of crushed ice for a jaw-dropping presentation, and the luscious fatty tuna, toro, which melts like butter on the tongue.

For the less adventurous, the kitchen turns out good cooked fish as well. There’s usually a fresh local catch of the day and other mainstays such as a Ginger-Panko Crusted Salmon or a whole fish prepared in a variety of ways. Other hot dishes include stir-fried noodles, rice or vegetables in combination with seafood or meat.

The bustling cocktail bar serves tasty but played out cocktails like the cosmopolitan and the lemon drop, but it’s their unique concoctions that really shine. The Washington Red Apple features Crown Royal whiskey, sour apple liqueur and cranberry juice served straight up, and the Saketini is a potent mix of Bombay Sapphire Gin and Kira Sake, finished off with a vermouth-soaked Japanese cucumber slice -- a perfect complement to the clean flavors of sushi.

Zenbu is a fun place to start your night out. The popular happy hour always draws a crowd for deals on small bites such as spicy tuna handrolls and tempura, plus drink specials on Mai Tais and the like. There's usually a full house Thursday through Saturday nights with plenty of great people-watching. Sit out on the patio and be a voyeur, stand at the bar to be a part of the action, or grab a seat at the sushi bar for a prime view of the show.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here dozens of times.
Tapenade, La Jolla-Downtown
03/09/07 Dishing in the City

Sunday through Thursday, dine on French bistro classics in an elegant setting for half price.

I feel like I’m letting one of San Diego’s best-kept secrets out of the bag, but I can’t help but share when it concerns something so delicious. Five nights a week, you can feast like a king or queen on fancy French food, from escargot to foie gras, for less that you can imagine.

Tapenade Restaurant in La Jolla, a bastion of haute cuisine with high-end prices to match, offers an abridged but no less sophisticated menu in their bar area every night of the week. However, the real bargain comes on Sundays through Thursdays, when the prices on the already affordable bar menu are reduced by half. Their extended happy hours run from 5:30pm to 8:30pm Sunday through Wednesday and until 9pm on Thursdays, when live jazz is featured. These magic hours entice you to grab a seat at the bar or at one of the cozy tables in the bar nook and dine on perfectly executed bistro favorites for $6-$12 a plate.

Starters include escargot a l’ail, bathed in garlic, parsley and hazelnut butter, which begs to be sopped up and relished with the complimentary baskets of crusty loaves from Bread & Cie. Terrine of foie gras, a rare treat, comes with a slice of buttery toasted brioche and is topped with sweet fig jam. The crevettes sauce cocktail features giant, juicy tiger shrimp served chilled with a creamy and tangy remoulade sauce.

I swoon with every bite of the ravioli aux champignons. These plump pillows filled with a luxurious wild mushroom mixture are given a hint of sweetness by Port wine, and come draped with aromatic white truffle foam and shards of shaved Parmesan cheese. At less than $7, this decadent pasta dish is a true culinary treasure. Blustery evenings call for a warm and comforting dish and nothing fits the bill better than Coq au Vin, the ultimate chicken stew; Tapenade’s version blankets a fluffy mound of proscuitto-flecked mashed potatoes and is topped with farm-fresh veggies. The Burgundy sauce that enrobes the chicken is plate-scraping good. A stellar rendition of steak frites features a flavorful New York strip steak, mesclun salad and a perfect tower of pommes frites.

To drink with all this great food, you could sample a $6 happy hour cocktail, either a Cosmopolitan or Appletini. But what pairs best would be a glass of wine, all of which are priced at $2 off.

Selections from the dessert menu are not included in the happy hour event, but when you’ve saved so much already there ought to be enough room in the budget for something sweet. Chocolate lovers will find nirvana in the trilogy de chocolat, a sampler platter of warm chocolate fondant, bittersweet chocolate sorbet, white chocolate and coconut mousse. Also irresistible is the poire pochée, poached in Muscat wine and vanilla and served with espresso-accented bittersweet chocolate custard and caramel sauce.

Meals at Tapenade begin and end with a charming complimentary taste from the kitchen. On one night we started with small bites of salmon mousse and ended with deliriously delicious tiny coconut macaroons and fudgy brownie bites. The service is wonderful, attentive but not intrusive, and they never make you feel like you’re a discount diner. So sit back, relax and indulge in a wallet-friendly meal that doesn’t skimp on a thing.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here more than ten times.
Laurel Restaurant & Bar, Bankers Hill
03/02/07 Dishing in the City
Laurel's 7 before seven happy hour enables you to indulge and pamper yourself with swanky snacks and cocktails on a working stiff's budget.

I'd like to buy a drink for whoever invented happy hour. Kudos, sir or madam, for coming up with such a brilliant concept! Happy hours are the perfect way to end a long workday, and a great chance to grab a bite with friends and still be home in time to watch that episode of Lost that you just Tivo'ed, with no need to fix yourself dinner. Happy hours give you a reason to drink during daylight hours, and it's usually at reduced prices. I'm really not sure how it gets any better than that.

Most happy hours in San Diego consist of some well drinks, draft beers, and a selection of tasty but typical fried foods and the like. Sometimes that does hit the spot, but occasionally I want more than just a TV and a jukebox in terms of atmosphere, and maybe a little more creativity on the menu. That’s when I head for the bar at Laurel Restaurant, the best spot I've found to satisfy my champagne tastes on a beer budget.

Laurel calls their happy hour menu “7 before seven;” it features seven cocktails and seven snacks for, yes, seven dollars. Unlike some other spots that only offer happy hours on limited occasions to draw in business on quieter nights, Laurel generously serves their happy hour menu seven days a week. Besides going above and beyond normal happy hour menu options in terms of creativity and quality, Laurel's portions are pretty generous too, so it's easy to cobble together a nice meal off the list.

My favorite bar bites are the mini Lamby Joes, sophisticated versions of those cafeteria sandwiches of my youth—made with ground lamb, flavored with Indian spices, and garnished with caramelized fennel. Also satisfying and delicious are the Short Rib Spring Rolls, given a Greek twist with feta cheese and minted yogurt dipping sauce. The homemade flatbread features a changing array of toppings, usually a happy marriage of savory and sweet flavors. One night it was pear and smoked bacon enhanced with nubbins of blue cheese and medjool dates; on another occasion the flatbread was served with housemade mozzarella, pesto, heirloom tomatoes and drizzled with aged Balsamic vinegar. Mini escargot poppers elevate this bar menu standard to new heights, especially when accented by preserved lemon crème fraiche and a tender sea bean salad, and a daily special grilled panino sandwich is cutely accompanied by a shot glass of a complementary soup.

Laurel's drink options are equally inspired. The Dragon's Blood Sangria, despite its ominous moniker, is a delicious though potent version featuring red wine spiked with ruby port and calvados brandy. The Mangotini and Pomegranate Crush are both better-than-average renditions of these popular cocktails, and there are always some interesting wines offered by the glass. The bartenders are welcoming and friendly, and the wide white expanse of the bar makes it a very comfortable place to dine and relax. Happy hour patrons are also able to chill on the jewel-green sofas in the mezzanine level entry lounge.

Laurel's 7 before seven is a fantastic way to taste some examples of their fine-dining cuisine and have a decadent experience at an affordable price. This is happy hour at its finest.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here more than ten times.
Saffron Noodles and Saté, Midtown
02/23/07 Dishing in the City
This local favorite is a casual lunch and dinner spot that features affordable and tasty Thai noodles, soups and more.

I thought I’d complete my triumvirate of favorite spots on India Street with Saffron Noodles and Saté. I log a lot of time on that stretch of street, with frequent trips to Saffron, Wine Vault and Blue Water, and occasional pints at Shakespeare’s Pub. It’s so hard to find a parking space that I feel I should make a night of it once I finally find a spot. Good thing there’s lots to drink and eat within a small radius!

A selection from Saffron’s menu, loaded with many variations of Thai noodles, soups and curries, is a great way to start off a night with a fortifying meal. My favorite dish is their Pad-See-Ew, a comforting stir-fried noodle dish made with wide rice noodles and broccoli and flavored with sweet soy. The sweetest bits are the fried shallots that they scatter on top--I wish they sold these addictively sweet caramelized morsels by the bagful!

The spicy Drunken Noodles, seasoned with sinus-clearing hot chilies and lemongrass, go perfectly with a Thai Singha beer. Zesty Ginger Beer and sweet Thai Iced Tea are also super refreshing. If I’m feeling under the weather, nothing is more restorative than a deep bowl of Tomm Yam Noodle Soup. Featuring chicken, thin rice noodles and veggies, the dish’s rich broth spiced with star anise will definitely cure what ails you, or at least feel like a hug from mom.

The rotisserie chicken from Saffron’s tiny takeout spot next door can also be ordered in the noodle shop. The special on Sundays and Mondays, a whole roasted chicken plus salad, rice and sauces, is a deal and a lifesaver for last minute dinner parties. Out of the choice of five sauces offered, my pick is the creamy Indonesian peanut sauce, which you could pretty much slather on anything and have it taste great. Other daily specials at Saffron are pretty tempting too. Wednesday's Chicken Curry Egg Noodles is always tasty, as is Thursday’s Fish Curry, spicy red curried swordfish served with jasmine rice, cucumber salad and sweet chutney.

There are also lots of snack sized dishes, such as translucent rice paper-wrapped summer rolls, grilled chicken saté skewers and veggie filled egg rolls. Saffron is also vegan and vegetarian-friendly--most dishes can be prepared with tofu on request. If mango is in season, don’t miss the Sweet Sticky Rice dessert. The warm and luscious coconut milk-enriched glutinous rice is lovely in combination with a fan of cool mango slices.

Saffron Noodles is my kind of fast food. It’s not the spot to go for the full spectrum of Thai cuisine but it’s a quick, affordable place to temporarily satisfy your cravings and tide you over until your next trip to Thai House or another favored restaurant. The casual dining room is a comfortable place to eat, and has the added appeal of being an art gallery of sorts since it’s decorated with vibrantly colored glass sculptures by Dale Chihuly and beautiful prints by the late Italo Scanga.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here more than ten times.
Jasmine Seafood Restaurant, Kearny Mesa
02/16/07 Dishing in the City
This popular Chinese restaurant serves up dim sum daily and offers fine Cantonese cuisine that includes fresh and delectable seafood dishes.

Dim sum literally means “a little bit of heart” and it’s definitely something that’s very close to my own. There is no better brunch than dim sum and I’ve spent many a weekend amidst the seductive aromas of steaming baskets on circulating food trolleys, eagerly awaiting my favorite dishes to roll by. I’ll be spending this Chinese New Year at one of my top dim sum spots, Jasmine Restaurant on Convoy Street, entertained by lion dancers who will be performing there through February 25th.

Jasmine offers dim sum for lunch seven days a week, but the assortment on the weekends is much more extensive. The bustling restaurant is usually filled to the gills by noon on the weekends, but the turnover is fast so the wait for a table is generally pretty brief. Once you’re seated, you’re greeted by waitresses pushing carts piled high with small baskets and plates holding countless varieties of sweet or savory bite-sized treats. There aren’t really menus here but the friendly wait staff will usually help you by explaining what’s in each dish. Or you can just have some fun and point to something interesting looking and try a new taste. Most dishes are in the $2-$4 range, so it’s possible to stuff yourself silly on the cheap. Dim sum is most fun when eaten in a group so that there are enough people to guarantee a good array of dishes.

I’m a little impatient to wait until all the carts do a full turn around the restaurant, so sometimes I’ll get up and seek out my favorite dim sum delights. Some best-loved dishes are the fragrant pan-fried shrimp and chive dumplings, and steamed bean curd rolls that hold a mushroom and bamboo shoot mixture. I crave fried taro root dumplings with their lacy shells and shrimp and pork filling, and savory domes of glutinous rice mixed with bits of Chinese sausage. I prefer the golden baked BBQ pork buns with their eggy dough and sweet lacquered tops to the snowy white steamed versions, but will happily eat either one. And yes, I really like the spicy braised chicken feet.

I usually cap off my dim sum meal with a mini egg custard tart, which combines a flaky pastry shell with a luscious, not-too-sweet filling, but if I’m feeling virtuous I go in for a bowl of fresh, silken tofu, served steaming hot with a spoonful of sweet ginger syrup.

Dinners at Jasmine are worth a trip too, especially for crispy-skinned Peking duck, served in two courses, and succulent whole steamed black cod, showered with scallions, ginger and garlic. Stir-fried lobster is always a treat, especially when served atop a mound of delectable egg noodles. The house special pepper steak practically melts in your mouth; I think they employ some kind of magic that transforms sirloin into filet mignon. Sweet and tender pea pod shoots sautéed with garlic are healthy and delicious, clay pot braised tofu and seafood is comfort in a bowl, and the dried scallop, Chinese broccoli and egg white fried rice is an interesting and tasty take on the familiar.

Jasmine Restaurant is a good option for a quick workday lunch, a casual weeknight dinner, a leisurely weekend brunch or an evening banquet meal. There’s even a stage and set-up for karaoke if the need arises!

I do not have any connections with this business
Wine Vault & Bistro, Midtown
02/14/07 Dishing in the City
This charming wine store, wine bar and bistro in one welcomes oenophiles and wine novices alike.

You’ve probably walked down India Street countless times and been unaware of the prize that lies just a few feet above the sidewalk. The Wine Vault & Bistro is a drinking and dining destination like no other. Although a painted stairway leading up from Saffron Chicken’s patio gives people some direction, the restaurant still feels like a hidden treasure.

Don’t worry though, there’s no pretense or exclusiveness at this spot. The people, servers and patrons alike, are all uncommonly friendly, which is sometimes a rarity in wine-tasting rooms. Instead of stuffy sommeliers and intimidating wine lists, you’ll find simpatico food and drink lovers who like to share new wine finds or just a good story. The owners have created a comfortable space where mingling and lingering are cultivated and encouraged. There’s a spacious dining room and a heated outdoor patio (which I’m always reluctant to leave), with lots of cozy seating around a central fire pit.

Thursday and Friday nights feature casual wine tastings that attract those seeking a bar and lounge scene. It’s a great place to start a night out on the town or unwind with friends. All appreciators of wine will find something to love in the bar's collection of Californian, European and Australian wines, available by the glass, bottle or flights of multiple 3 oz. tastes. I’m always discovering something new and delicious to spend my hard-earned money on.

Non-wine inclined folk (who must be converted!) won’t go thirsty here either. The Wine Vault also offers specialty beers and an assortment of premium spirits--or as the menu calls them, “attitude adjusters.” Certain nights feature special tastings of single malt scotches, tequilas, small-batch bourbons and more, including a killer martini sampler.

The restaurant’s bistro menu features a tasty list of small dishes that go above and beyond standard bar fare. There’s a requisite cheese platter which includes an amazing Roaring 40’s Blue; there are also panini, including an andouille sausage version with peppers, onions and mozarella. Fried calamari with marinara sauce and perfectly cooked pommes frites are great for sharing. Heartier plates include a succulent pan-seared pork chop with apple chutney, a sirloin steak with gorgonzola cream sauce, and sauteed wild mushroom on polenta. Nights at Wine Vault aren’t complete without the Belgian chocolate mousse, flavored with Chambord and topped with a cloud of whipped cream. Its arrival at the table always elicits much glee since it is spoon-licking good.

Occasional weeknights and most Saturdays are devoted to multi-course food and wine pairing dinners that change themes on a weekly basis. These dinners are a relative bargain when you consider that most include six or more food courses with wines to match.

Word about the Wine Vault is quickly spreading. It's already a bit tough to get a table sometimes, but you'll be rewarded for your wait with stellar wine, good food and welcoming smiles all-around. You might just discover a new spot to add to your rotation. My friends and I have taken to the place so much that Fridays are now referred to as Wine Vault Fridays in our vernacular. Stop by and have a glass or two and see for yourself.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here more than ten times.
Blue Water Seafood Market & Grill, Midtown
02/01/07 Dishing in the City
This casual seafood market/grill serves up some of the freshest fish dishes around, along with local microbrews and fast, friendly service.

I wish I lived closer to Blue Water on India Street. I imagine short walks down to the market to pick up a fresh piece of swordfish to throw on the grill, some mussels for an impromptu cioppino dinner, or a quick bite when I just don't feel like cooking. It's the kind of place every neighborhood should have; a family-owned-and-run joint with top quality ingredients that you can buy to prepare at home or have cooked for you in lots of tasty and affordable ways. Luckily, due to Blue Water's convenient location right off the 5 Freeway and an exit away from my office, I can and do eat there quite often, sometimes twice a day.

Nothing makes for a better lunch than one of Blue Water’s sandwiches, featuring a choice of fish (shark, salmon, ahi, etc.) grilled and then basted with lemon-garlic butter, and served on a toasted boleo roll with lots of fresh veggies. You can also have your fish fried or blackened, and moistened with teriyaki or chipotle sauce. All choices result in a gloriously messy three-napkin sort of sandwich, the very best kind. Pair it with some truly excellent waffle-cut fries and, if you're not going back to the office, a draft from local brewery Ballast Point. My favorite is the Wahoo Wheat beer, whose clean citrus taste seems tailor-made for drinking with seafood.

When I go back for dinner, I like to start with Blue Water’s ceviche, chunks of fish marinated in a tangy dressing and mixed with pico de gallo. It comes with heaps of El India tortilla chips and is perfect for sharing. I go back and forth about the danger of eating raw oysters. Seriously, how can it be so wrong when loving them feels so right? So when I'm throwing caution to the wind I feel pretty safe with Blue Water’s fresh, briny-sweet oyster varieties, served with spicy homemade cocktail sauce. There really is no sexier appetizer in existence.

For mains, I go with their good rendition of fish tacos, filled with mahi-mahi or seabass, cabbage, tomatoes, a bit of melted cheese, and a creamy but not gloppy white sauce that just gilds the lily. Blue Water also offers their stellar grilled and seasoned fish atop a salad or alongside rice pilaf. Make sure to peruse the specials board too; sometimes there are great deals on local lobster, fried soft shell crabs and other ocean delights. The only thing I haven't ordered more than once is the clam chowder, which I found to be lacking in "clammy" flavor and overpowered by black pepper.

Seating is limited but turnover is fast, thanks to the snappy kitchen staff and the super-friendly and quick service. If you're not going to eat and run, try to grab a table on the pleasant outdoor patio which has a little more atmosphere and room to hang. There are limited desserts here, just a few cookies and the like, but a short stroll up the block will take you to the delicious frozen treats at Gelato Vero, if you still have room after your seafood feast.

I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here more than ten times.

Locals helping locals discover great dining in San Diego.

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