Rebecca C.
20 Eats.It Staff Recs
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Fish Market / Top of the Market, Downtown
07/11/07 The Good StuffThis landmark seafood destination offers fresh fish, bay views and a comfortable escape amidst a day of playing tourist or after a long day’s work.
With no shortage of choices at this harborside destination, the first thing you’ll have to decide is where to sit. The ground floor dining area is a bustling, casual restaurant catering to tourists strolling down Harbor Drive, while the Top of the Market, tucked upstairs, is a slower-paced fine dining experience complete with white table cloths and slightly better views. In addition to these venues, a gorgeous outdoor deck, sushi bar, and an oyster bar serve those who are looking for smaller bites or a few drinks.
I’ve only ever gotten as far as the outdoor deck and the oyster bar, and frankly you don’t need much more to thoroughly enjoy this place.
The glossy, cherry-stained wood veranda wraps all the way around the restaurant, so whether you prefer views of Coronado or waving to tourists aboard the U.S.S. Midway all you have to do is position your Adirondack chair appropriately and prepare to relax. The outdoor food menu is limited, but still offers some sure-to-fill-your-tummy fare like salads, smoked fish, and simple sushi rolls like California and Spicy Tuna. Just ordering one of each will create a complete meal. You can also order some deliciously gooey garlic cheesy bread or load up on the complimentary sourdough, which rivals anything you’d get in San Francisco.
Chairs go fast on the deck, but I have found the best time to take advantage of the outdoor space is between 3:30 and 5pm, before the after-work crowd gets there. I know this because I used to work in downtown, and would sneak out before 5pm just to get a table.
If sunny weather isn’t cooperating or you’re looking to indulge a larger appetite, look no further than the full-service oyster bar. Competition for seating exists here too, so avoid the actual lunch hour and head in earlier or later if time allows. If you do manage to snag a couple of seats, you’ve successfully avoided a typical wait for the dining room; it’s a fantastic vantage point for people watching; and you get to chat with a chef who doubles as your server. Did I mention the size of the menu?
From chowders, Cioppino, salads and pastas to shellfish and fish prepared just about every way you can imagine, The Fish Market has it all. And “all” includes their Farallon Fisheries facility as well an oyster farm in Puget Sound. Keeping in mind that all curing and smoking is done at Farallon using hickory and sugar maple woods, you may want to start off with my favorite item: the smoked fish sampler, which typically includes albacore, salmon and trout along with capers, red onions, and toast points.
If you like oysters, or if you’re looking to try some for the first time, this is a good reason to engage the chef who will be more than happy to tell you about the different varieties. But if the thought of raw oysters tempts your gag reflex, there’s plenty of steamed, baked and fried everything, from clams and scallops to fish, crab, mussels and shrimp. Ask for help if you get overwhelmed.
Believe it or not, some of the more popular items from the oyster bar are the pasta appetizers, which, by the way, aren’t appetizers at all – they’re much bigger and perfectly proportioned to share. Pasta con nova (with salmon), pasta con pesto, and pasta marinara are just a few choices. The best part: order some garlic prawns over the pasta con pesto (my favorite), or create your own combo.
The rest of the oyster bar menu features crab and lobster entrées; chicken and steak; pan-fried catfish, abalone and calamari; as well as at least fifteen different types of fresh fish, all mesquite grilled to perfection. If you like fish, this is the place.
Weekends can get awfully crowded, especially since the parking lot is also open to everyone visiting the U.S.S. Midway, Seaport Village and so on. But if you time it right or just happen to be in the neighborhood, The Fish Market is well worth any wait time you may experience. Just be sure to bring coins for the parking lot meters, or be prepared to valet your car. If worst comes to worst, you can always order fresh fish to go from the retail counter and grill it up at home.
I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here dozens of times.
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Miami Grille, La Jolla-UTC
07/03/07 The Good StuffSave the airfare to the Caribbean -- some awesome Cuban food is waiting for you in your own back yard.
Black beans, slow roasted pulled pork, grilled marinated steak, Spanish chorizo, sweet potato fries. Hungry yet? Miami Grille can take care of that. The newest addition to an ever-growing collection of restaurants in the Golden Triangle, Miami Grille is bringing a taste of the Caribbean to our coast and no flavors have been left behind.
The colorful art deco interior is reminiscent of South Beach, while outdoor tables provide perfect vantage points for people watching. Though admittedly I’m less impressed with Miami Grille’s actual location adjacent to a parking lot at UTC’s Westfield Mall. This place is crying for a sandy beach.
But fortunately, its lack of outdoor scenery is quickly forgotten with the first sip of rum and the first bite of food. Miami Grill boasts the largest rum selection in San Diego and if you like it straight, I advise you to order Zaya on the rocks. If you like things mixed, the Mojito with light rum, fresh mint and lime, simple syrup and soda water is Miami Grille’s specialty and definitely a must-try.
The selection of foods will overwhelm you, as will the portions. You’re better off going with a large group if you like to try a little bit of everything. If it’s only two of you, I strongly suggest sharing an entrée or planning on eating Cuban food for three days straight since you’ll be taking most of it home.
A vast assortment of appetizers includes specialties like calamari sautéed with garlic, green olives, capers, cilantro and white wine, as well as empanadas (mini-turnovers) filled with chicken, beef, shrimp or vegetables and other savory ingredients like olives, cheese and sweet peppers. Our favorite starter is Miami Grille’s version of antipasto. The Espana platter comes with jamon (Spanish ham) wrapped around Spanish chorizo, marinated stuffed olives, manchego cheese, seasonal fruit and toasted Cuban bread.
Forewarning: the Key West Chicken salad with mayo-curry dressing and rum soaked cranberries, and the South Beach salad with bleu cheese, red onions, red bell peppers and candied walnuts, are absolutely delicious -- but no way would I categorize them as “lighter” fare!
And not to be outdone, the sandwiches are piled high, and served with crispy seasoned fries or sweet potato fries, or both. The Cubano with marinated and slow-roasted pulled pork, jamon and swiss cheese is my absolute favorite, but for the more adventurous, there’s the Frita Cuban which combines a ½ lb. Kobe beef patty, chorizo, lettuce, tomatoes, red onions and a secret sauce.
Truthfully though, the Chopp-Chopps have my heart. These true “Floribbean” creations layer grilled chicken, shrimp or beef over your choice of rice, beans, lettuce or tomatoes. To me, there’s nothing better than the Churrasco Chopp, with marinated steak and the sent-from-heaven Chimichurri sauce of olive oil, garlic, red pepper flakes, vinegar and cilantro.
If the various Chopp-Chopps don’t get your attention, there’s plenty more menu to choose from! How about panko crusted steak; grilled baby back ribs marinated in Caribbean barbecue sauce; Jamaican Jerk chicken; chicken curry; or the Key Largo pan-seared salmon served on a bed of garlic mashed potatoes, sautéed baby spinach and citrus chili sauce and topped with sautéed shrimp and a side of mango relish. Flavors of the Caribbean unite!
By the way, certain dishes come with Maduros -- fried, caramelized, extra sweet, extra ripe plantains. If your meal doesn’t come with any of these devils on the side, make sure you order a side dish. Or you can always order them for dessert. They come with vanilla bean ice cream, toasted coconut and rum sauce. If bananas aren’t your thing, there’s also a Puerto Rican rum cake, and the signature bread pudding with rum sauce, both of which are baked fresh on the premises and worth every calorie. Be sure to top things off with a Café Cubano: strong, black, sweet coffee served in a tiny cup and sure to “really give you a jolt!”
Miami Grille started out in Poway and only opened in UTC about seven or eight months ago. Things began slowly, but I’ve noticed more people each visit -- obviously an indicator of its growing success. And with happy hours Monday through Friday, live Cuban music every Saturday, and even the occasional wine tasting event, I’m predicting an oceanfront location in the very near future. -
Bristol Cafe, La Jolla-UTC
06/26/07 The Good StuffNot only does Bristol Farms offer hundreds of gourmet items, picnic baskets, and catering services, but it also sports its very own restaurant.
When I’m out and about, nothing frustrates me more than not being able to find healthy food for breakfast or lunch. The so-called light choices at our local fast-food joints may be light on calories, but they’re also light on flavor and portion size. This is not the case at Bristol Café, the designated eatery within Bristol Farms Market.
If you haven’t been to Bristol Farms yet, imagine Whole Foods on steroids, with equal attention to farm fresh and organic products, but more of a focus on gourmet groceries and special occasions. Instead of incense and hemp clothing, you’ll find crystal goblets in the gifts section. And if you enter Bristol Farms with an appetite, you’ll find that the meat, seafood, bakery and deli sections are at least double the size of those at Whole Foods. And don’t forget the sushi counter! Here you’ll find everything from brown rice rolls and nigiri to different types of marinated sashimi that you can scoop up by the pint. They even have seafood bowls, teriyaki bowls and “extra” containers of ginger, wasabi and dynamite sauce -- basically, all the comforts of a sushi bar, “to go.”
But aside from all of that, my favorite part of Bristol Farms is the in-store café. Here you can bring in the goodies you ordered from one of the aforementioned counters or you can order from their menu. Although the service can sometimes be a bit slow, the preparation and the sheer freshness of the food makes it worth a little extra time.
Breakfast items are served daily from 9am to 11am during the week and from 7am to noon on weekends, while the rest of the menu is available all day until 7pm. All the classic breakfast choices are offered, from smoked salmon and bagels to eggs and sausage, but why not start your day with a lobster and asparagus omelet for less than ten bucks? Or maybe a wild mushroom and goat cheese omelet. I usually end up ordering the Hollywood, made with egg whites, Swiss cheese, onions, peppers, zucchini, yellow squash, spinach and mushrooms, because typically I’m not that fond of vegetables but when I find an enjoyable way to consume them I stick with it. Somehow this dish is as flavorful as it is healthy and it simply thrills me.
For the sweet tooth, a sugar-laden list called Sweet Beginnings features Bristol’s famous pecan pancakes made with caramelized bananas and topped with honey-pecan butter, as well as French toast made with bakery fresh cinnamon swirl bread. If you’d rather walk on the spicy side, kick up your meal with some Andouille sausage. You can have it with poached eggs and Cajun hollandaise over English muffins or in the Arnold omelet with spinach, tomatoes, garlic, onions and cheddar cheese.
The rest of the menu features an array of gourmet salads, like Bristol’s Newport Wedge with Proscuitto di Parma, Gorgonzola, oven-roasted tomatoes, red onion, grilled artichoke hearts and buttermilk dressing; and burgers such as the Cadillac, which features a pate truffle mousse, French raclette cheese, cornichons and sautéed mushrooms. Gourmet indeed!
Additionally, classic deli sandwich selections are featured, along with a long list of House Favorites like smoked turkey and Stilton with mango chutney and arugula; Tuscan chicken with fresh mozzarella, artichoke hearts, tomatoes and mixed greens; and even a lobster quesadilla with mango salsa.
I’m lucky to live nearby, but Bristol Farms is right off I-5 at the Nobel or La Jolla Village Drive exits, which makes it pretty convenient if you’re in the general vicinity. Whether you take out or dine in, with so many fresh and healthy choices throughout the store and in the café, I don’t know why you’d even consider driving through the neighboring McDonalds! And by the way, not only does Bristol Farms host wine tastings every Tuesday, but depending on where you live you can get sushi and just about anything else in the store delivered right to your door. Need any other reasons to check this place out? I didn’t think so!
I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here dozens of times.
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Peohe's, Coronado
06/20/07 The Good StuffPronounced Pee-oh-ees, this Coronado dining retreat provides unique fare, a tropical atmosphere, and quite possibly the best view in San Diego.
Peohe’s is sprawling. Its interior is vast, with lush greenery, a waterfall and high ceilings paneled with windows to the sky. Windows form walls around the main dining room and meet the water’s edge in the enclosed patio. The view from Peohe’s is never out of sight, which is perhaps why so many artists set up camp on the ferry landing; and when the sun disappears, instead of going dark the horizon comes alive with the lights of downtown’s skyline.
A unique feature of Peohe’s interior is the five-level tiered seating layout in which most of the tables are turned toward the view. Aside from the few that face inside, there’s really not a bad seat in the house. The best table choice to impress friends or colleagues is number 19. If that’s not available simply ask for something in the city room or the enclosed patio. For something more romantic ask for tables 9 or 10. These oversized crescent shaped booths face the windows, but are elevated one level above the city room and beg for cuddling.
Just as sprawling as Peohe’s landscape is its menu. From seafood and steaks to a dedicated sushi bar featuring Polynesian-themed rolls like Surf and Turf, Volcano and Orange Crush, there are enough choices here to keep you coming back for years.
One of my favorite appetizers is the Pacific Fire Shrimp. Tender shrimp are baked in a dish of butter, garlic and island spices, which include a good dose of Tony Cachere’s Cajun seasoning blend, so you know it’s got to be good. If you’re a fan of Oysters Rockefeller (we’re a small population) Peohe’s offers an outstanding version. There’s no skimping on spinach or butter, and a spritz of licorice-flavored liquor really gives these oysters some extra pizzazz.
Speaking of liquor, Peohe’s signature entrée just happens to be my personal favorite. The Halibut Mai’a is fresh halibut sautéed with macadamia nuts, bananas and Frangelico, a hazelnut-flavored liquor. I’m a sauce lush and if you are too I suggest you order an extra portion of this stuff (plus bananas) because it’s just that scrumptious.
When I’m not in the mood for the sweeter side of dinner, I go for the Pacific Island Ahi, which is served with another scrumptious sauce: warm soy-ginger butter. If only my mother had ladled this stuff over my vegetables as a kid.
Aside from the halibut, Peohe’s is also known for their coconut crunchy shrimp. I’ve had a lot of coconut shrimp in my time and this recipe truly is the best version around.
Peohe’s offers the standard New York steak, prime rib and filet mignon, but I suggest ordering the latter “en croute” if you’re feeling carnivorous. The decadent package arrives wrapped in bacon and puff pastry and comes accessorized with a duet of béarnaise and bourguignon sauces. Phenomenal! And while I never order chicken in restaurants, the Caribbean-style jerk chicken with pineapple chutney is surprisingly good.
Save room for dessert! The crème brulée is perfectly crackable and if you like a real traditional key-lime pie, Peohe’s has the recipe down pat. And let me say this to the folks who may have been previously misled in life: the real thing is not lime-gelatin-and-whipped-cream green. One note for chocoholics: the hot chocolate lava cake takes thirty minutes so you’ll have to plan ahead. And if you consider passing because you think all molten cakes are the same, keep in mind that this one is complemented by a generous topping of Heath Bar crumbles and a scoop of macadamia nut ice cream.
Peohe’s recommends making reservations. While you can request a window table, remember that everyone else is doing the same -- so don’t be surprised when the reservationist says, “we can’t guarantee a window table, but we’ll do our best to fulfill your request.” I guess that’s how they protect themselves from customer tantrums later on!
I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here dozens of times.
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Bay Park Fish Co., Mission Bay
06/12/07 The Good StuffWho needs high-end seafood? This neighborhood eatery serves some of the freshest fish in town, and without all the fuss.
Fresh fish, cold beer, and on any given day, a fireman sitting at the bar -- I think I’ve died and gone to heaven. Sorry, I have this thing for the red trucks, and for me, spotting a fireman is like watching George Clooney or Matthew McConaughey on the big screen. It just brings a smile to my face.
But let’s get back to the fresh fish and cold beer before I veer too far off the road. Although since Fire Station 25 is right around the bend from the Bay Park Fish Co. I understand it must be a hard combination for the guys to resist after a long day’s work. In addition to serving some of the freshest fish in town, Bay Park Fish Co. has Firehouse Pale Ale on draft. And in case you don’t know about the Firehouse Brewery, it was founded by third-generation firefighters here in San Diego after the tragic events of 9/11 -- that’s certainly something to raise a glass to.
Stella Artois, Hefeweizen and Calico Amber are on also tap, in addition to a decent list of bottled domestics and premiums. For the non-beer drinkers there’s a short list of wines by the bottle and glass. I haven’t heard of most of the selections, but the Pinot Gris is a nice drinkable white on a hot day. I also like the Firehouse Red, although perhaps only for obvious reasons. To be honest, I haven’t actually tried it, but the Pinot Gris is good, I swear!
As far as favorite eats, it’s hard for me to narrow things down. I’ve been here so many times and I’ve never had a bad meal. For starters, I’d have to say our favorites are the crispy calamari, the steamed mussels, and the ceviche of the day. The calamari has flaky tempura-like batter and is served with an unusual yet very tasty mint-mayo dipping sauce. The mussels are piled high over an insanely good coconut milk and lemongrass broth -- and here’s a tip: order a side of jasmine rice to go with these because you’ll want something to soak up the sauce at the end. The ceviche is the best ever. If I wanted to have a Mexican-themed party I’d definitely order this by the quart. It’s the right amount of spicy and limey, and wow is it fresh.
By the way portion control is not an issue here, so there’s a good chance you won’t move beyond a couple of appetizers. But if you do, the fish tacos are awesome, as is the smoked fish torta, which is my personal favorite. House-smoked seasonal catch salad tucked inside a Mexican telera roll and served with large quantities of coleslaw and crispy shoestring potatoes -- so much better than tuna from a can!
What I have found most interesting is that there is a “specials” list, but in all our visits it’s never changed. Last time we were in I asked our server about it and was told they’re working on it. In the meantime, the list features additional items like the tuna burger with wasabi mayo, crab cakes, Kung Pao calamari, and a mixed green salad with crab.
But if you’re looking to try something more gourmet than sandwiches, salads or fried foods, check out the chalkboard behind the bar. Here you’ll discover more “dinner style” entrées like bacon-wrapped scallops with Thai apricot glaze, grilled ahi with Chinese black bean sauce, and the Bay Park Paella with chicken, chorizo, calamari, shrimp, clams and mussels (whew!). Although you’ll also discover that unlike the wallet-friendly choices on the core menu, the chalkboard entrées carry dinner-style price tags.
All in all, Bay Park Fish Co. is a casual affair and has become one of my favorite stops on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon. But even if you don’t have time to sit for a full meal you can always order something from the deli counter. Choose from gorgeous pieces of fresh or smoked fish as well as scallops, crab cakes or even ceviche by the pint. Either way, the next time you’re near the neighborhood, stop in, have a beer and check things out.
I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here five to ten times.
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Roy's La Jolla, La Jolla-UTC
06/05/07 The Good StuffRoy’s blends classic foods with contemporary flavors while maintaining tropical roots planted firmly in Hawaii.
With its Golden Triangle coordinates, Roy’s caters to corporate happy hours and dinner meetings. On weekends it’s crammed with out-of-towners and large parties. Things get kind of loud, and if you don’t have a reservation it can be a long wait. On the flip side, Roy’s has some pretty unique dishes and it’s easier to enjoy them if you know a few secrets: Go in on Monday or Tuesday, dine before 6:30pm and if possible, sit at the “chef’s bar.”
Once we tried to get seated without a reservation and the hostess informed us it would be 45 minutes for a dining table, but that she could seat us right away at the chef’s bar. Having been a hostess in a previous life, I knew she assumed that sitting at the kitchen’s edge would seem unappealing and we’d ask to be placed on the wait list. Instead, we jumped at the chance to experience something different, and now it’s the only place we sit.
To clarify, it’s not Roy you’re sitting with but three delightful sushi chefs -- all female and perhaps the friendliest fish cutters in town. Upon our first experience it turned out that I knew the head sushi chef, Katherine (“Kat”), and we ended up having a fabulous time. But even if Kat’s not around, Kristela and Cristle maintain a great vibe. And yes, they realize it may take you a few visits to get their names straight.
Besides being able to chat with the darlings of sushi, sitting at the bar allows you a full view of the kitchen. It’s like watching Top Chef while you’re eating, and it’s pretty cool if you’re into that. You’re also presented with chilled sesame-marinated edamame -- an addiction waiting to happen and a superb suggestive selling technique. Sushi anyone?
Ask for a chef’s choice roll if you’re feeling adventurous; otherwise go for the yummy Auntie Lei’s Aloha Roll, made with yellowtail, salmon and avocado wrapped around spicy tuna. Many sushi items are paired with interesting twists like kimchee lime butter, peanut truffle oil and apple mustard emulsion. Even the ahi tartare is mixed with pine nuts and garlic chipotle aioli. There’s really no way to go wrong here.
One of Roy’s favored appetizers is the Canoe Platter. It’s meant for two and features a tempura crusted ahi tuna roll, Szechuan baby back ribs, lobster potstickers and seared tiger shrimp sticks. Good stuff, but because I like to start off with sushi I prefer a salad to the other appetizers. Don’t be fooled by the little symbol next to the Mowie Wowie, which indicates it’s one of Roy’s specialities. There’s only one salad you need to concern yourself with and that’s the California crab and avocado salad with snow crab, melon, feta cheese and Yuzu cream dressing. It’s not just me -- Kat and the girls recommend this salad and even our waiters have pondered why it hasn’t earned the special symbol. By all accounts, it deserves one!
When it comes to my entrée, there’s only one thing I crave: Hawaiian Style Misoyaki Butterfish. Aside from Thee Bungalow’s Salmon en Croute -- which is no longer available due to a recent change in ownership -- the butterfish at Roy’s is my favorite fish entree in San Diego. Maybe even the world. This fish is thick and meaty, yet its high oil content keeps things soft and oh-so-buttery without that “fishy” taste. It’s prepared with delicate miso that caramelizes ever so slightly during the cooking process, and served over jasmine rice. It’s the filet mignon of fish -- classic, simple and absolutely exquisite.
If that doesn’t get your attention (though I don’t know how it wouldn’t), perhaps a Kurobuta pork porterhouse will. Between land and sea Roy’s offers plenty. Just keep in mind that while core items are never tampered with, Roy likes to mix things up from time to time -- a recent realization that prompted further investigation on my part. Thankfully, my favorites aren’t in danger!
I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here five to ten times.
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Jayne's Gastropub, North Park
05/30/07 The Good StuffSay hello to one of North Park’s newest and most sophisticated neighbors.
The term “gastropub” immediately piqued my curiosity. While the scientific-sounding prefix stems from “gastronomy,” a word that refers to the art or science of good eating, the suffix “pub” summons images of beer, fish, and chips. Talk about literal meaning.
Perhaps the biggest surprise is how bright Jayne’s spot at 30th and Adams is. Like the neighbor on a street of run-down houses who decides to spruce things up with a fresh coat of paint, Jayne’s Gastropub is raising standards in a neighborhood weighted down by liquor stores, old coffee shops and hole-in-the wall bars. Thankfully, those businesses also have their place in the world, but Jayne’s storefront, dressed in bright white accented with a sophisticated black trim and adorned by corner topiaries, definitely adds some new life to the area.
Inside is an understated but classic atmosphere of yellow walls and dark woods, little tables and little chairs, oversized mirrors, lace curtains and a black-and-white checkered floor. It’s very Eurobistro. Though if you haven’t been to Europe that probably doesn’t resonate with you, but go to Jayne’s and you’ll get the picture.
I recommend starting out with the generous portion of calamari, served perfectly hot and crispy. It comes with horseradish cocktail and caper tarter sauces, which I think taste even better when mixed together.
Normally I resist ordering short ribs because, unless the seasoning or sauce is somehow unique and original, how good can short ribs really be? I broke my rule because a girlfriend, having already eaten at Jayne’s, insisted I try them. I’m glad I did. The Niman Ranch beef surrounded by a scrumptious port wine reduction literally falls off the bone -- as in spear meat with fork, lift fork to mouth. No knife needed here.
My man has found himself torn between the fish and chips and the steak frites. Steak always sounds good to him, but it seems fish and chips sound good to many others—you can often spot the mounds of Newcastle Ale battered seabass and piles of crispy Kennesec chips in front of at least one patron at every table. Jayne is delightfully honest: the fish and chips have become the house favorite, but her personal choice is the steak, adorned by a housemade basil salsa verde. For the record, a steak ordered medium-rare arrives perfectly cooked.
The butterscotch crème brulee and the lemon tart are as far as you need to look for dessert. My only complaint on the brulee has been that the top shell has been not a shell at all, but rather a bit soggy. It might have been that the kitchen was just too busy, but it seemed like it might have been pre-made. However, the crème underneath was delish and it’s a definite reorder. Next time I’ll just ask for a little extra TLC (read blowtorch) on my shell. But if I had to pick only one winner it would be the lemon tart. An exquisite balance of sweet and sour nested inside an ultra-flaky almond pastry and topped with fresh whipped cream, it’s a refreshing yet decadent end to a meal.
Jayne is clearly making her mark in North Park (by the way, did I mention she stole the chef from Parallel 33?) and I highly recommend making reservations. If you can’t get a dinner table right away you might be able to score a seat at the bar, where you can hear the story of the vintage cash register over a pint of Lightning Thunderweizen (Anfeuerungen!).
If I were you, I’d get to Jayne’s as soon as possible, as she’s already talking about changing the menu to reflect the seasons. “Do people really want to eat short ribs in the heat of summer?” she asked us. Um, yes? Don’t start messing with a good thing, Jayne! Although really, I’m not too worried—it’s obvious Jayne and her gang are doing something right.
I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here once or twice.
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Cody's An American Place, La Jolla-Downtown
05/23/07 The Good StuffAs stated on their website, “Cody’s presents exceptional food that is refreshingly uncomplicated and uniquely American.”
My first experience at Cody’s took place shortly after the restaurant had undergone a major remodel. Since I had never been before, I didn’t have any expectations and I certainly wasn’t aware of what I was missing. We ended up at Cody’s for breakfast after deciding we were too hungry to wait in line at our old standby, Brockton Villa.
Cody’s isn’t far from Brockton -- just a little higher up and off to the side on Girard Avenue -- so you’ll still see your share of palms and white water. And like most places in La Jolla, you have a choice of sitting inside or out. Obviously, when the weather is decent, outdoors is most popular, but indoors has a charm all its own. The quaint New England beach cottage, with its open home-like floor plan complete with Easter yellow paint, corner fireplace and “kitchen nook” benches, makes you feel like you’re looking on as a friend prepares dinner in the kitchen.
As far as food is concerned, anyone who knows me knows that the smallest delights make me happy. For example, I typically tolerate the fact that most restaurants don’t serve soymilk. This means I have to skip coffee (because I can’t have cream) or I have to drink it black (which I don’t enjoy). Before ordering our first ever breakfast at Cody’s, I skeptically asked for soymilk. When the server failed to reply with “sorry, we don’t have that,” I almost fell off my chair. I gleefully ordered a double soy latte and I swore, even if the food was bad, the ocean-view tables and soymilk were enough to bring me back. Lucky for me, the food was good and we’ve been back many times since.
Breakfast is served daily from 8:00am to 1:00pm. The crab omelet with lemon basil crème fraiche and the omelet with fresh tomato and goat cheese are excellent choices, but I’m often torn between getting a “healthier” omelet or my all-time favorite (and all-out-binge-fest), the “Awesome French Toast with Bread & Cie Challah.” It’s served with warm maple syrup and a fresh berry compote that should be jarred and sold at every farmer’s market in the land. So good!
While I often cave to my sweet tooth, my southern-bred sweetheart sticks with Cody’s down-home style items. He prefers the “Hangtown Fry” with scrambled eggs, crispy fried oysters and smoked bacon, or the scramble with house-made rosemary biscuits, pepper gravy and sage sausage. But no matter our preferences, we always end up sharing.
Dinner is a casual affair with a one-page wine list and one-page dinner menu, but you won’t feel deprived of choices. The seared scallops in vanilla beurre blanc and the arugula salad with Coachella Valley dates, goat cheese and toasted fennel vinaigrette are two of my favorite ways to start. But it’s the main course selections -- with creative endeavors like rack of lamb with a goat cheese and pistachio crust; Canadian duck breast in pomegranate molasses; and seared Ahi with white bean and garlic puree -- that pose more of a decision problem. And although I haven’t gotten around to trying it, the crispy free-range chicken with lemon-thyme mashed potatoes always looks and smells divine from neighboring plates.
Unfortunately, I haven’t gotten around to Cody’s for lunch either, but the menu -- which includes fish and chips, fried oysters, chilled salmon salad, and at least nine different specialty sandwiches -- implies that it will be worth my while. Well, that and a slice of Cody’s red velvet cake with white chocolate frosting and chocolate walnut ganache!
I should mention that Cody’s is only open for dinner Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, and while you can make a special request for the table next the fireplace, just note that plenty of others are doing the same. Also, if you’re interested in saving some cash without scrimping on food, ask to see Cody’s delightfully extensive Pri Fixe menu (they don’t present it otherwise).
I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here three to five times.
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Napa Valley Grille, Downtown-Gaslamp
05/15/07 The Good StuffA taste of the wine country is right in your urban backyard.
Rutherford. Yountville. Calistoga. St. Helena. These may sound familiar if you’ve been to Napa, but no, I’m not recommending you take a trip to the wine country (although, why the heck not?), I’m listing the names of the perfectly proportioned lunch entrées at Napa Valley Grille.
Positioned on the edge of Horton Plaza’s southwest rooftop, the restaurant appears to have been transplanted into the modern architectural setting straight from the grape orchards. And with their attention to all things wine country, it’s no surprise that Napa Valley Grille has a sister restaurant in Napa. Think deep cherry woods; smooth granite bar tops; a palette of maroon, chocolate brown and burnt orange; wine barrels as end tables; rustic light fixtures; and a lunch menu worthy of a picnic among the vines. On a warm day you simply must sit in the outdoor bar or at one of the umbrella tables, where the only thing keeping you grounded in Downtown is the panoramic view of condo highrises.
Your experience will begin appropriately with fresh baked bread, seasonal tapenade and dipping oil. (If only the wine was complimentary as well!) The menu offers plenty to choose from and I love starting things off with the pan-roasted mussels. Piled high and topped with toasted baguette points, they’re soaked in a broth of applewood smoked bacon, roasted garlic, herbs, butter and white wine. The warm crusted Brie with roasted colossal garlic, jalapeno pear jam and balsamic onions makes an excellent partner to the Artisan cheese plate with seasonal fruit, traditional condiments and baguette slices.
A main course standout is the crispy free-range chicken, but for something really decadent try the mushroom fettuccine with truffle oil and Parmesan shavings.
But didn’t I mention something about perfectly proportioned lunch entrées? Since they don’t have a category title on the menu, I like to refer to them as the “wine country lunches.” They combine a soup de jour, a decent portion of salad and half a sandwich. For example, the St. Helena -- the most popular of the bunch -- puts the spotlight on a light and tangy Caesar salad and half an open-faced crab melt; the Calistoga pairs a fresh butter lettuce salad with half a grilled vegetable sandwich; while the Rutherford pairs a Greek salad with half a meatloaf sandwich. You get the best of everything on one plate and it’s just enough that you won’t be stuffed, but you certainly won’t leave hungry.
If the combo thing isn’t your style, you can choose from additional salads like the chicken Cobb; the roasted pear and dried cranberry over butter lettuce with goat cheese, pistachios and sherry vinaigrette; or the seared Ahi with ginger emulsion. Additional sandwiches include an herb marinated chicken sandwich with balsamic portabella mushrooms and smoked tomato aioli, as well as a Brie burger with sugar cured bacon and red onions.
I hesitate to focus on individual dinner items because while lunch tends to stay the course, the dinner menu is where the chef really takes advantage of seasonal changes. Reminiscent of food you would expect to find at any fine wine country restaurant, Napa Valley Grille pays homage to local farmers by featuring homegrown classics like duck breast, filet mignon, pork loin and lamb. But it’s pairing these entrées with sassy sides like Gorgonzola ravioli, mascarpone polenta, Meyer lemon risotto, or crab, Pancetta and asparagus flan that really keeps things interesting. Napa Valley Grille is worth going to once every couple of months just to taste what’s new.
Just don’t forget one major component of dining here: The wine! In addition to singular selections on an extensive California wine list, Napa Valley Grille offers wine flights. With these you can taste multiple wines for less than purchasing three full glasses and if you like one in particular, you can always order another glass. I mean, c’mon, it can’t be considered a wine country experience if you’re not drinking fabulous wine -- right?
I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here five to ten times.
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The Zodiac, Mission Valley
05/08/07 The Good StuffYou’ll half expect to see women wearing white gloves and pillbox hats in this elegant fine-lunching atmosphere, but it’s not nearly that stuffy!
Don’t let the fact that this restaurant is in a department store deter you from a wonderfully chic dining experience -- think high tea with more than just finger sandwiches. Basically, the Zodiac is where ladies go to “do lunch.” (Sorry, guys!)
Many young girls have their first Zodiac lunch in the company of their mother or grandmother, but I didn’t make it until a few years ago when a gal pal treated me to lunch. Just recently, I did the same for another one of my girlfriends. Like me, she loved the ultra-girlie atmosphere and was amazed she’d gotten so far in life without dining at the Zodiac, let alone ever hearing of it.
You needn’t be intimated by any sense of “Neiman Marcus” exclusivity, because if any exists, it’s only in your head. I mean, sure, Amazon beauties walk around modeling baubles and trends that you probably can’t afford, and some very old (and new) money will be dining right along with you. But we all deserve this type of oasis -- which, mind you, is a far cry from greasy food court eateries!
At the Zodiac, they appreciate how hard shopping can be. As you enter the doors, just when your arms are failing under the weight of your treasures, the host will offer to check your bags. And now that you’ve taken a load off, I recommend you order a glass of champagne and join the ranks. A look around the not-so-secret society will reveal just how many of us enjoy a glass of wine during the day. Tres Euro!
Before you can even look at the menu, a miniature cup filled with warm chicken broth and a bite-sized cheese croissant will appear. I think I actually squealed with delight the first time I experienced this moment. And just as you’re relishing your petite treat, something else arrives: monkey bread, popovers and strawberry butter. With carbs like this, woman could absolutely survive on bread alone!
With no bananas in sight, I’m not sure why they call it monkey bread, but it’s a bit similar to Hawaiian sweet bread, and the oversized popovers resembling little chefs’ hats are guaranteed to throw your diet off track. And that sweet berry-licious strawberry butter -- oh, it’s the little things in life!
As you might suspect, the menu is heavy on lighter fare. Entrée selections feature items like citrus-grilled salmon; pork tenderloin over pappardelle pasta with tomatoes, asparagus tips, arugula and a caper citrus sauce; and the Zodiac quiche and house salad. Wonderfully gourmet sandwiches make it hard to choose just one, but I’ve narrowed it down to the albacore tuna with avocado on croissant and the warm roast beef with balsamic caramelized onions and horseradish crème sauce.
It’s also hard to choose just one salad from the numerous concoctions, but the two most decadent have to be the Zodiac’s famous orange soufflé paired with a very tasty chicken salad, and the steakhouse salad. Okay, so maybe a soufflé defies the term “lighter fare,” but let’s not nitpick.
The latter of the two is my personal favorite, which marries whole romaine leaves, red and yellow vine-ripened tomatoes, caramelized red onions, crumbled bleu cheese, filet mignon and balsamic vinaigrette. At $21, it’s certainly not the cheapest selection, but any pain your pocketbook may feel will only take place right before you order. It will just be a twinge and it will be fleeting, I swear.
Desserts are heavenly looking and feature the regular crew of chocolate, crème brulee, fresh berries, etc, but notice I said heavenly looking. If I’m eating at the Zodiac it’s because I’m shopping, and I seriously doubt that consuming dessert will help me fit into that perfect pair of jeans!
All I can say is that the Zodiac speaks to the girlie girl in all of us, so the next time you’re enjoying a day filled with new shoes and the latest lip gloss, go ahead -- treat yourself one step further. Your definition of a day at the mall will take on a whole new meaning. Or if you find yourself in a time crunch, ask about the “shoe box” lunches to go!
I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here five to ten times.
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Azul La Jolla, La Jolla-Downtown
05/01/07 The Good StuffEnjoy an array of Mediterranean-inspired California tapas without ever having to travel abroad.
Ever been hungry but not hungry enough to commit to a huge meal? Or maybe you just feel like grazing and tasting a few different things. The word tapas refers to a small snack or appetizer and is a style of eating especially popular in Spain. But you don’t need to go to a Spanish restaurant to find a great tapas menu in San Diego.
Nestled in the heart of downtown La Jolla on Prospect Street is Azul La Jolla. Descending a short flight of stairs puts you right in the middle of Azul’s charming garden courtyard, complete with Costa del Sol-inspired terra cotta tiles and an oversized fireplace. For Azul’s “California” tapas menu, this is as far as you need to go, as inside may only serve to confuse you.
Don’t get me wrong -- inside, you’ll find a soothing Mediterranean theme of bright blues and browns set off with wrought iron designs, whimsical lanterns and delicate pottery. Not surprisingly, you’ll also encounter a main dining room outfitted with floor-to-ceiling windows facing the coast, and at first glance you’ll probably want to sit at one of the window tables, because back out in the courtyard there is no ocean view.
But inside the dining room, there is no tapas menu. Well, at least not in its entirety.
It seems like a small thing, but it’s a mental note worth making. I’ve dined in the courtyard, which is also an extension of the indoor bar area, as well as the main dining room. Truth be told, the tapas menu is just more fun! And, many of the dinner entrées appear on the tapas menu in downsized versions.
The only problem you’ll face with the tapas menu is the fact that there are at least twenty-five different items to choose from. The menu follows relatively standard order, with appetizers at the top, then salads, sandwiches, meats, fish and flatbreads. Let me proceed by highlighting some of its standouts.
If you like oysters, the deep water oysters Rockefeller baked with smokehouse bacon, fresh wilted spinach and a tarragon hollandaise is a must-try, as is the pistachio-crusted Brie cheese torte, served warm with Grand Marnier apricots and balsamic reduction. And I don’t even like Brie! Other items like the warm crab and artichoke pastry and the rock shrimp (or sometimes lobster) “pot pie” with saffron vegetable fondue are also on my radar.
Salads include a crispy Romano-crusted chicken salad with gorgonzola cheese, avocado, oranges, pine nuts and balsamic honey; a crisp pear and walnut salad with baby greens, gorgonzola and a delightfully sweet raspberry vinaigrette; and of course, a Caesar, which is garnished with one of my favorite things in life, a fried parmesan crisp.
Moving on to heartier selections, you’ll encounter cocoa braised short ribs. Do not pass these up! They are meaty and thick and the meat truly melts away from the bone. They’re served with herb-buttered potatoes worthy of their own individual place on the menu, and garnished with a tomato-balsamic reduction. I’ve noticed that short ribs have become a “safe” culinary staple these days -- one that I’m becoming a bit bored with -- but these are unbelievably good.
You might also want to try the fennel-crusted lamb loin medallions with eggplant confit, goat cheese béchamel and tomato candy, or the grilled pork chop with kumquat salad and cinnamon chili oil. Remember, these are all much smaller portions than you’re probably used to, so don’t be afraid to order a smorgasbord!
Azul’s chef takes great pride in showcasing the freshest ingredients from local farms as well as seasonal favorites. With that in mind, I’ve spotlighted the current menu for spring, but I can assure you that even in the fall, with ingredients like butternut squash and slow-roasted quail making their annual appearances, you won’t be disappointed any time of year.
Azul’s tapas menu is available in the lounge and outdoor courtyard from 4pm to closing, and coincides with a daily happy hour Tuesday-Sunday 4pm-6pm and all night Monday.
I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here three to five times.
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La Bastide Bistro, Scripps Ranch
04/23/07 The Good StuffA little bit of France tucked away in old Scripps Ranch.
We almost didn’t go back to La Bastide after our first visit. Not because the casual eatery with butcher paper-covered tables is located in a strip mall, like so many “neighborhood bistros” are these days. Not even because of bad service. Our waitress, Nicole, was all smiles and her knowledge of both food and wine was surprising. It was because I had totally geared myself up for cassoulet -- a rustic stew comprised of duck, sausage and white beans -- and upon consumption, found the beans totally undercooked.
Nicole was apologetic and absolutely mortified. Owner Giles Fourgeres came by our table with apologies. We didn’t pay for the cassoulet, dessert was on the house and Nicole even threw in some dessert wine. To be totally honest, our overall experience was excellent -- the rest of our meal was delicious and we really felt catered to -- but I couldn’t let go of the beans. It was, after all, bean stew.
Then, about two months after our first visit, I was looking online for French restaurants in San Diego. Browsing lists titled “Best Of” and “Top Ten,” I spotted La Bastide on all of them. We decided the undercooked beans were a fluke and went back.
Who says you never get a second chance to make a first impression?
Interestingly, the cassoulet has been on a temporary vacation from the menu, but thanks to all the other goodies, I haven’t missed it one bit. Our favorite starters include escargot served with parsley garlic butter as well as country-style pate or the seared foie gras. But if snails and livers don’t whet your appetite, go for a bowl of classic French comfort with the onion soup au gratin, or try the seared Maine scallops in port wine sauce with mushroom ravioli.
Salads are generous in portion size and wonderfully exotic. They feature ingredients like goat cheese croutons, lavender honey, truffle dressing, poached pears, duck confit and candied walnuts. It’s just too bad this particular grouping isn’t from one salad in particular!
Making an entrée choice won’t be any easier. Seafood selections include mussels mariniere; salmon in parchment paper with a fennel, leek and zucchini julienne over a ginger beurre blanc; and fresh fisherman stew which includes mussels, shrimp, salmon, scallops and the fish of the day.
Oh, and remember the aforementioned scallops in port wine sauce with mushroom ravioli? My gift to you is this: order it as an entrée! The scallops are plump, tender and cooked perfectly; the port wine sauce is buttery and rich yet delicately balanced with the wine; the mushroom ravioli -- and I mean this -- is the best ravioli I have ever had. The mushroom filling is savory in flavor yet has a texture of truffle candy. The pasta is fresh and hand rolled to paper-thinness, but rather than encase the filling in a traditional flat form, it’s gathered upwards like excess tissue paper around the neck of a wine bottle. It looks and tastes exquisite.
For the carnivores I recommend the duck leg confit; parsley-crusted lamb chops with potato gratin; or the simple steak and pommes frites -- a New York steak served with garlic butter and fries. Additionally, I’ve heard rumors that the chicken in red wine with mushrooms, otherwise known as coq au vin, would make a Frenchman’s grandmother proud, but I’ve yet to venture out that far.
When it comes time for dessert, skip the crepes and head straight for the perfectly thick but still fluffy chocolate mousse; seasonal fruit clafoutis with white chocolate ice cream; or the warm chocolate fondant with caramelized pineapple and coconut. I’m not sure how French that last one is, but it sure is good!
In addition to lunch and dinner, La Bastide also offers Happy Hour Monday through Friday complete with drink specials and an extended appetizer menu.
I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here three to five times.
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Miguel's Cocina, Coronado
04/17/07 The Good StuffThis Coronado gem offers delicious Mexican fare in an outdoor atmosphere worth leaving home for.
A member of the Brigantine family of restaurants, Miguel’s Cocina has locations in Coronado, Point Loma and Eastlake. Having been to all three, I’d say it’s easy to see why Coronado is the favorite among locals and visitors alike: location, location, location!
First of all, you’re in Coronado, which is home to some of San Diego’s most charming scenery. Second of all, the restaurant is situated in the center of the historic El Cordova Hotel and the main dining area is actually a tropical outdoor courtyard. Lastly, and perhaps most important with regard to Mexican food cravings, no other restaurant serves complimentary jalapeño cheese sauce along with their chips and salsa. Man, oh man -- white cheese and jalapeños, and probably some other ingredient my arteries don’t need to know about, all melted into a creamy liquid consistency and served warm. I hate to admit it, but I can polish off two large ramekins of this stuff without any help from my amigos.
I can be equally gluttonous with the bartender’s specialty -- the Brig Margarita. It’s an ultra-tasty, perfectly sweet, perfectly sour margarita made with top shelf tequila and finished with splashes of orange juice and Grand Marnier. Careful with this one though! Aside from a very sneaky buzz, the margarita comes in its own shaker, which means you’re on your own when filling your salt-rimmed glass. And as many folks have learned the hard way, including myself, the shaker top isn’t exactly stable and there’s a slight trick to pouring out the contents. The waiter does warn you, but it never fails -- somebody always spills. That’s okay -- bring me another one!
Usually, I fill up on enough cheese sauce, chips and margaritas that I don’t need to order anything else. Wait, who am I kidding? This is Mexican food -- it’s not about need! Lucky for me, Miguel’s has all my favorites, and since the same menu is available all day every day except for Sunday brunch, it just becomes a matter of what I’m in the mood for.
With so many items to choose from, you won’t go wrong with classics like the carne asada burrito with fresh guacamole and salsa; beef or chicken chimichanga fried to perfection and topped with red enchilada sauce, sour cream and guacamole; or enchiladas suizas -- shredded chicken, salsa verde and sour cream. Also worth trying, surprisingly, is the chicken torta with mayo and avocado, which is the closest thing on the menu to a sandwich besides the hamburger on the gringo’s menu. If your appetite isn’t quite up to the task, try the flautas, which are rolled-taco-like versions of the chimichangas.
Miguel’s specialties include a generous and tasty carnitas plate as well as some delicious fish tacos. These SoCal favorites are topped with an excellent white sauce, and the use of red cabbage versus green gives them an extra crunch. And just in case you didn’t get enough of the jalapeño cheese sauce, you’ll find plenty more on top of the shrimp sautéed with onion, bell pepper and mushrooms -- a mixture that just begs for warm flour tortillas -- or over a pair of jumbo shrimp enchiladas. I’m getting hungry just thinking about it!
If by some miracle of miracles you have room for dessert, the caramel flan is a no-fail choice. But for something extra special, go for the fried ice cream. One scoop of chocolate or vanilla ice cream is rolled in a batter of cereal flakes, deep-fried and finished with a dusting of cinnamon and sugar. Frankly, whoever thought of this dessert should be knighted. A cup of Mexican hot chocolate or Kahlua and coffee should top things off appropriately -- or maybe one more margarita!
Now that all this talk about Mexican food has you reaching for a jar of salsa, you can add Miguel’s to your list of places to try. And keep in mind, with the beach and all the shopping and sights Coronado has to offer, Miguel’s can easily become part of an entire adventure, whether you choose to start out with lunch or end with dinner.
I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here dozens of times.
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Clay's La Jolla, La Jolla-Downtown
04/11/07 The Good StuffYou’ll get a bird’s eye view of La Jolla’s coast from the 11th floor of this chic jazz bar and dining spot.
Formerly known as Elario’s and perched atop the Hotel La Jolla at The Shores, Clay’s La Jolla offers patrons sweeping views of the ocean and surrounding Mt. Soledad homes. It’s the kind of view that prompts you to let out a sigh and vow not to be rushed by your waiter. I recommend you make a 6pm reservation and take at least an hour and a half, if not two hours, to enjoy one of San Diego’s most romantic sunset dining spots. Just be sure to tip your server a little extra if you end up “camping” for that long.
The interior canvas of Clay’s is hip, yet understated. Shades of sage and cream are smart neutral choices against a clear evening’s backdrop of sapphire blues and fiery oranges. And since there are only two rows of about twenty tables along the length of the dining room, with a solid wall behind the rows and nothing but floor-to-ceiling windows in front, there’s not a bad seat in the house.
Sometimes what makes a place worth returning to can be found in the smallest of details. Upon being seated at Clay’s, your server will present you with a complimentary Kir Royale -- bubbly with a touch of cassis, or rather, raspberry flavored liqueur. Being that champagne is my favorite pre-dinner cocktail, this treat alone is worth coming back for. But before you think me cheap and ill mannered, I must say the food puts an equally wide smile on my face.
Clay himself can often be found in the kitchen, either cooking or putting a finishing touch on his creations. Because he uses fresh organic ingredients, the menu tends to change seasonally. Recently we’ve delighted in appetizers like pan seared scallops over baby arugula with apricot crème fraiche, duck spring rolls with Thai sweet chili and pomegranate reduction, and the fried calamari with three dipping sauces. By the way, if you order the calamari or anything that comes with Meyer lemon aioli, ask for extra of the aioli, and some more bread!
Salad descriptions always look amazing, but alas, Clay’s Caesar has my heart. It’s the dressing that puts me over the edge -- creamy garlic along with a separate drizzle of balsamic reduction. I know, not traditional at all, but must we nitpick?
Entrées cover all the meat and fish groups and are accompanied by their own mouthwatering sides. Cassis seared duck breast comes with butternut squash ravioli in a sage cream sauce; a pork chop is paired with garlic mashed potatoes and a cranberry and grape compote; sea bass is served with mango fried rice cakes; while a filet mignon shares company with a guilty pleasure worth breaking your diet for -- Manchego cheese potato gratin.
When it comes to the sweets, unfortunately, catching the exquisite Napoleon on the dessert tray is like trying to spy a snow leopard in the Himalayas. But if it happens to be there, order it. Otherwise, I suggest Clay’s opera cake, which is entirely too big for one person, but pure decadence for chocolate lovers. I’m sure the cheesecake or crème brûlée is worth trying, but this chocoholic has yet to have either. At least I’m honest!
Besides the sunsets and complimentary Kir Royales, Clay’s offers one other bonus: live jazz Wednesday through Sunday. A band or DJ sets up shop in the adjacent bar area, but guests in the main room can enjoy the music as it filters throughout Clay’s intimate dining space. Wow, a bar, a restaurant, live music and a killer view -- how many places in San Diego offer that?
I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here three to five times.
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Red Sails Inn, Shelter Island
04/04/07 The Good StuffIf you could eat breakfast or lunch any closer to San Diego’s fishing boats, you’d be on one.
If you’ve never been to the Red Sails Inn on Shelter Island, let alone heard of it, throw on a pair of shorts and flip-flops and get yourself over there, pronto! The food is good ol’ American grub and it’s the one place in San Diego that reminds me of Cheers, where everybody knows your name.
Red Sails has been catering to families, fishermen and boat-going types since 1957. These days, you’ll find the same and then some. The charming interior is adorned with photographic glimpses of San Diego’s commercial fishing history; Sausalito-style wooden tables and chairs; red carpet and crimson leather booths; wrought iron chandeliers and nautical wall decor. The night lighting casts romantic red shadows reminiscent of an old world fisherman’s wharf, but during the day everyone begs to be outside on the harbor-side patio, especially if it’s warm. Prepare for a hefty wait on weekends for these coveted tables.
Every time we enter the Red Sails we feel like we’re coming home. The same staff members are always on deck to greet us with hugs and handshakes. It’s assumed we want to sit outside, and it’s further assumed we want Paula as our waitress. Paula has a hilarious sense of humor, a smile for days and can provide casual yet exemplary service no matter how busy she gets. She also knows exactly how we like to start things off: two Bloody Marys, with olives.
Only after we have our perfectly peppered tomato concoctions in hand will we ask ourselves the hardest question we ever face at the Red Sails: breakfast or lunch?
If it’s before noon, I usually go for the Collision Mat Special: two hot cakes, two eggs, choice of meat and for good measure, I add a side of hash browns. I’m usually disappointed by traditional breakfast food for countless reasons, but Red Sails gets it right every time. They may be the only ones who know what “over medium” means. And while my boyfriend tries to avoid falling into my menu ruts, he admits his favorite dish here is the Fish and Eggs, or rather the special order Calamari and Eggs that are not actually listed on the menu. If you go this route, do what he does and ask for the dinner-style calamari. If your waitress looks at you blankly, have her bring Paula over -- she knows!
And speaking of calamari, forget the tiny little rings and tentacles you’re used to. The appetizer at Red Sails is a generous portion of thickly cut and fried strips that resemble old school fish sticks. If it’s after noon, this is what we start with. If you’re not a fan of calamari start out with the crab-stuffed mushrooms, jumbo shrimp cocktail or the sinfully delicious garlic cheesy bread, which is heavy on the cheesy.
Lunch selections feature traditional (and huge) Louie salads and seafood entrées such as fish and chips and macadamia nut-crusted halibut, but I never make it past the sandwiches. The patty melt and tuna salad are my top picks. They’re served with thick steak fries and a side of coleslaw, which I urge you not to overlook because it’s downright tasty.
You’ll find the dinner menu features the same appetizers, salads and seafood entrées as lunch but expands to include items like lobster Newburg, Cioppino and coconut shrimp along with classics like steak and lobster. Don’t get me wrong, dinner is good, but the classic Red Sails experience definitely takes place on the patio when the sun is warm and the energy is high. And you can always make a day of it by walking the length of Shelter Island or watching the circus at the boat ramp. By circus, I mean folks trying to put their boats in the water or get them out. It’s a show worth selling tickets to!
I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here dozens of times.
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Meritage Restaurant & Bar, Encinitas
03/27/07 The Good StuffWith awards like Best New Restaurant in 2003 and Chef of the Year in 2006, Meritage brings a winning dining experience to North County.
After riding the success of Sbicca Bistro in old Del Mar, Dan and chef Susan Sbicca opened Dan’s vision of a “neighborhood” restaurant and bar in Encinitas. Indeed, Meritage is located on the main drag in a quaint little strip mall, and goes out of its way to make you feel at home. Local art adorns a dining room that is sophisticated in design -- complete with white tablecloths and candles -- yet unpretentious enough to let you feel at ease in a pair of jeans. Servers are attentive and knowledgeable, especially when it comes to wine, but frankly, the food alone is worth the drive to Encinitas.
Be sure to bring your appetite because I can assure you, you’ll want to try one of everything! I suggest starting out with the prosciutto-wrapped scallops under a delectable drizzle of pomegranate balsamic (more please!), or whatever crab item the chef sees fit to put on the menu, whether it be a cake or fritter. Either way, it will be more crab than carbs, which is always a winner in my book. The featured ravioli appetizer is also a good bet, no matter what the filling or sauce.
Being that I’m a sucker for a good Caesar salad, I can be fairly critical when one isn’t up to par. Meritage gives theirs an interesting and very tasty twist by topping grilled hearts of romaine with hardboiled eggs, grape tomatoes, anchovies and shaved parmesan.
Main course specialties include such items as slow-roasted duck breast with winter fruit chutney, orange spiced-cognac sauce, chestnut sage risotto and pecans; stuffed organic chicken breast with apples, brie, sweet onions, thyme and port wine cider sauce; and grilled flat iron steak with porcini mushrooms; or rosemary-horseradish crusted filet mignon. But the crème de la crème, my go-to favorite, is the bourbon marinated pork prime rib with mashed sweet potatoes and Creole pecan butter. Talk about a happy Thanksgiving all year round! If ever there was a meal to die for, this one may be it for me. And rest easy, while the menu does change periodically, this item remains a staple.
Unfortunately, my favorite Meritage dessert does not. Here’s a mental note to make: chocolate bread pudding. If you see it on the menu, order it. It is absolutely out of this world. But, I warn you to approach Meritage’s dessert menu with a backup plan. If the chocolate bread pudding is nowhere to be found, look for the coconut tart. More like coconut pudding meets cheesecake in the middle of a classic shortbread pie shell. The filling is so thick and so luscious that your fork will practically stand up in the center of it. Divine!
If you don’t live in North County, the commute to Meritage can be a challenging one. It’s best to make weeknight dinner reservations after 7 p.m. or hit the seven-nights-a-week happy hour on the weekends when, between 4 and7pm, a lengthy menu of bar food hearty enough to be called “dinner” is offered at half-price.
For all you winos, Mondays and Wednesdays are half-price wine nights, while Tuesdays cater to the BYOB crowd by nixing corkage fees -- no matter how many bottles of wine you bring in. For those who prefer things shaken, not stirred, head to Meritage later in the week for Martini Thursdays. Just keep in mind -- with over a hundred martinis to choose from, at $4.00 well and $5.00 you-call-it, you may want to line up a cab for the ride home.
I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here three to five times.
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The Butcher Shop Steakhouse, Kearny Mesa
03/21/07 The Good StuffFor a side of old-school charm with your meat, check out this Chicago-style steakhouse.
Walk through the doors of the Butcher Shop in Kearny Mesa and you’ll half expect to see Sammy Davis Jr. or Ol’ Blue Eyes himself sitting at the bar. The lights are low, the leather is red and the friendly staff is all dressed up in black and white. Photos of the Rat Pack and various other stars adorn the walls, reminding you of the good old days -- even if you’re too young to remember them.
A proper toast to the classics starts with a drink. Here, the bartenders know what "generous pour" means! My man typically orders a scotch on the rocks while I go for a gin and tonic with extra lime. His single scotch always winds up looking like a double, and not only do I receive a cocktail that’s properly stiff yet still enjoyable, my request for “extra lime” is always taken seriously.
It’s not unusual for us to be joined by my parents, who are also fans of the restaurant. Looking around the dining room one tends to see other couples on double dates with their parents, as well as a motley crowd of young hipsters, casually-dressed families with well-behaved children, and the occasional group of Cosmo-drinking divas celebrating a birthday.
If we don’t wind up ordering the calamari appetizer, we tend to go for the New Orleans BBQ shrimp, smothered under a spicy butter sauce that spells C-a-j-u-n and demands extra bread. Speaking of which, the bread is toasted; it’s soft and crunchy in all the right ways; it has butter and garlic on it; maybe even a little cheese. It’s so good, the man and I have been known to plow through three baskets. But I figure the bread we use to soak up the sauce is simply utilitarian, so it doesn’t really count.
If you’ve read my other recommendations you know I’m a Donovan’s fan when it comes to steak and lobster. Problem is, my pennies don’t always add up to their prices! The Butcher Shop presents stellar food at prices everyone can afford. When I order the Australian lobster tail here, I order two. Yeah, you read that right —- two! Why? Because I can! I know, I know. I am such a glutton. But my man agrees when I say for the prices the food is stellar, and while the steaks may not compare exactly to those at Donovan’s, they are definitely worth consumption. A point often illustrated when my meat-loving father devours his steak in less than ten minutes while the rest of us stare in amazement.
In addition to lobster and all the classic cuts of beef, the Butcher Shop offers an extensive menu that covers everything from chicken and seafood to lamb, veal and pork. To give you an idea of what you can get for the price, “The Feast” includes an eight ounce prime rib, beer batter shrimp and a half-pound of king crab legs for $34.95. Additionally, entrees include soup or salad and your choice of side. For extra indulgence try an order of the sautéed mushrooms.
If it sounds like a lot of food, it is. It’s not about fancy presentation and petite portions at the Butcher Shop, so be sure to bring your appetite. And whatever you do, save room for dessert! The waitress will bring a tray showcasing the night’s goodies, but for me it’s always the carrot cake. Not only is it ultra moist, it’s layered and topped with a rich cream cheese frosting rather than the usual buttercream many restaurants try to get away with. If you’re a fan of carrot cake this one is a must try.
To simplify: The Butcher Shop tips their Fedora to the old-school by providing stiff drinks, great food and fair prices. Plus they’ve got complimentary valet parking. Now, that’s swell!
I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here five to ten times.
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Brockton Villa Restaurant, La Jolla-Downtown
03/13/07 The Good StuffThis historic house turned charming restaurant offers casual California fare and breathtaking views of La Jolla Cove.
You don’t have to dine at the Ritz-Carlton to get a million-dollar view in SoCal. Whether you wish to linger over coffee in the morning, throw back a midday beer with a couple of crab cakes, or watch the setting sun crawl under a blanket of stars, a little white bungalow known as Brockton Villa offers the best seats in La Jolla.
Nestled in a low hillside overlooking La Jolla Cove, the casual cottage is literally a stone’s throw from the cliffs making it a perfect vantage point for watching swimmers, wildlife, and passers-by. Even in the chill of winter Brockton Villa draws a local crowd, but things get really busy in spring and summer. Then, even at 8 a.m.when the restaurant opens, you’ll find a line of people out front—a line that becomes especially long on weekends.
Never mind the wait -- a cinnamon roll, baked fresh by Bread & Cie, makes it all worthwhile. What you have here is the texture of a traditional gooey cinnamon roll combined with that of a flaky croissant. At the core of this union is a delightful nugget of sticky brown-sugar-cinnamon goodness -- an utterly delectable bite you don’t dare give away. Trust me, this is no ordinary cinnamon roll. And in order to fully appreciate its consumption I suggest you ask to have it warmed.
Besides the fresh pastries and muffins, Brockton Villa’s menu features their famous “Coast Toast,” which is similar to a soufflé in texture and infused with orange, along with the popular “Eggs Ipanema” -- Canadian bacon, tomato and poached eggs on an English muffin topped with spicy tomato coconut sauce. The latter sounded strange to me at first too, but it’s good.
The generous Tower of Bagel is a build-it-yourself bagel and lox plate -- a classic choice worth the extra effort -- and although you won’t find fried eggs on the menu, you will find omelettes and “Steamers,” which are steam-scrambled eggs minus butter or oil. Honestly, I prefer butter and oil, but the Greek with feta, tomato and basil or the Mexican with chorizo are nicely flavored choices here.
One glitch at breakfast: mimosas and other alcoholic beverages aren’t served until 11am, which is fine, except that the aforementioned cinnamon rolls are usually long gone by then.
If sleeping in is more your morning speed, Brockton Villa’s lunch menu offers a meaty crab cake sandwich with avocado and red pepper aioli; blackened shrimp tacos with a refreshing cilantro-lime crème; a steak and tomato sandwich with bleu cheese and balsamic dressing; and a salmon BLT with dill aioli. The dinner menu maintains some lunch items but also includes heartier selections like filet mignon; mustard-chive crusted lamb rack; and slow-braised short ribs finished in a port-mole reduction. If you’ve never had mole, this would be a fine time to try it.
Desserts are delish, and you certainly won’t go wrong with Beaumont’s Big Chocolate Cake, named for Brockton Villa’s sister restaurant, but for a twist on the classic try their cappuccino crème brulee laced with Bailey’s. Who needs after-dinner drinks with desserts like this?
Mornings at Brockton Villa are my favorite -- there’s just something about starting the weekend with a breakfast outdoors. But with warmer weather in the air and summer fast approaching, I see a sunset and bottle of bubbly on a table for two in my future.
I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here more than ten times.
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Donovan's Steak & Chop House, La Jolla-UTC
03/06/07 The Good StuffFor the best USDA Prime Beef this side of the Mississippi (or at least in San Diego), it’s gotta be Donovan’s.
To appease my carnivorous nature, I’ve dined at just about every steakhouse in San Diego—big names as well as the little guys—but only Donovan’s has earned the number one spot on my list.
The dining experience begins the moment you arrive, as a valet parks your car and hostesses welcome you in with sincere smiles. Along the length of a gorgeous mahogany bar—hinting at the ultra-classic atmosphere with dark leathers and bronze sculptures—you’ll catch a glimpse of Donovan’s sophisticate crowd. And while various smaller dining areas provide choice settings for romantic dates, business meetings or private parties, I favor the high-backed booths in the main dining room, which allow me to keep an eye on the buzz factor while still providing a sense of privacy.
Once seated with menu in hand, your challenge quickly becomes clear: what to eat? Nothing on Donovan’s menu will disappoint, but allow me to navigate. Not-to-miss starters include the fried calamari and the seared Cajun lamb chops. Between four people the latter is a delightful tease, but closer to an entrée for just one person. While Donovan’s takes great pride in their Chop House Salad (as they should!), I prefer their homemade Caesar. If Caesar isn’t your style, try the spinach tossed in creamy Dijon dressing with mushrooms, bacon, egg and onion, or the beefsteak tomato and red onion. How tomatoes grow this delicious, I will never know.
Land offerings include familiar comforts such as a filet mignon and New York strip along with a T-bone, Porterhouse and Rib eye chop, but for something extra special, you might want to try the finest 14 ounce veal chop I have ever had the pleasure of meeting. My boyfriend typically leans toward the slow-roasted prime rib or a New York, but for me it’s always filet—that, accompanied by a side of Béarnaise and a dollop of garlic smashed potatoes. Mmm, mmm, good!
The star among the sea-dwelling items is a succulent 12 ounce Australian lobster tail. If you’ve never had Australian tail, do yourself a favor with this one. Having previously embarked on my own personal lobster-fest throughout San Diego and Mexico, I can say the lobster at Donovan’s is quite possibly the best around. The secret is how long they cook it, but I’m not telling—you’ll have to find that one out for yourself.
Speaking of secrets, you won’t find the Seafood Tower on the menu, but a quick look around the dining room may provide a visual. It’s hard to miss the magnificent feast of Alaskan king crab legs, snow crab claws, chilled gulf shrimp and a 10 oz Australian lobster tail arranged like a work of art. The price tag isn’t for the faint of heart, but you might find the price-to-portion ratio reasonable enough for four people, and it will definitely take the place of any appetizers and salads you would otherwise order. Am I speaking from experience? You betcha! And it was worth every penny!
Having had every item on the dessert list as well as being a self-appointed crème brûlée critic, I can tell you this is precisely what they do best. The decadent French-vanilla custard underneath a glassy have-to-crack-it sugar topping is perfection. Though fairly generous in portion size, I recommend ordering your own if you’re the selfish type!
We continue to visit Donovan’s for the food, but also because we have felt like VIPs from our very first visit—a visit specifically marked by a waiter named Victor who has taken exquisite care of us nearly every time since. Frankly, the man should teach a class on the finer points of service. Managers are equally attentive and not only know us by name, but they often take time to chat tableside—to catch up with our lives or discuss their recent wine finds. What I’ve noticed about Donovan’s is that every person on staff works with a common goal in mind: give the guest a total dining experience, or in their words, a “world class” experience. They succeed every time.
I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here more than ten times.
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Cucina Italiana, Clairemont
02/27/07 The Good StuffThis Clairemont Mesa eatery offers irresistably good Italian comfort food without the Downtown crowds or attitude.
A walk through the Gaslamp or Little Italy proves San Diego doesn’t come up short on Italian restaurants. But if you’re looking for Italian food that doesn’t compete with traffic and expensive parking, look no further than Clairemont.
Yeah, okay, so Clairemont doesn’t exactly offer a runway like the Gaslamp—hip urbanites strutting their latest fashions, suits in search of liquid meditation after a hard day, halter-topped beauties schmoozing their favorite doorman—but what Clairemont does have is Cucina Italiana. The casual, neighborhood bistro serves up Italian comfort food with a generous portion of camaraderie, which makes it easy to end up there when the chef in your kitchen doesn’t feel like cooking.
Sonny runs the place and although he’s not Italian, he certainly acts the part and can “Ciao Bella!” with the best of them. Don’t worry, he won’t sing “When the moon hits your eye . . .” but he’s personable, attentive, and he’ll bend over backwards to keep you and your guests coming back. Like when he overheard a server apologize to me for being out of lemons, within two minutes lemons appeared on the table. Sonny had gone next door to Starbucks to obtain them. See? A strip mall location has its perks!
Oh, wait. Did I forget to mention that?
Admittedly, a slight downside to Cucina Italiana’s outdoor patio is the fact that it faces a parking lot, but don’t be so quick to judge a restaurant by its curb appeal. It’s what’s on the plate that counts. And since a movie theater sits on the same lot, I figure it’s a date night in the making.
The indoor décor in Cucina Italiana is simple but does help to provide an escape from the parking lot. Walls are bathed in shades of Tuscan yellow, while white lights twinkle overhead and along shelves lined with bottles of Chianti, Barbera and Barolo, to name but a few varietals on Sonny’s handpicked wine list.
Edibles include salads, pastas, seafood, meats, pizzas, calzones and nightly specials, so be prepared to have trouble deciding what to order. But if you ask me, one dish beats ‘em all. You’ve heard of Death by Chocolate Cake? Well, you won’t find that scrumptious dessert here, but the lasagna should be similarly named. Unlike any lasagna you’ve ever had, the magic is smoked cheese and creamy béchamel sauce layered between delectable meat ragu and handmade pasta sheets. It’s absolutely crave-worthy.
In addition to the lasagna, the gnocchi—perfect potato pillows with cuts of juicy filet mignon in a creamy mushroom sauce—move me to perform my happy dance. This consists of me wiggling back and forth in my chair and clapping little claps in quick succession. This dance takes place whenever food arrives and I can just sense how good it’s going to be. Oh, yeah.
And by the way, I have a friend who eats in a way that puts a vacuum cleaner to shame, but never have I seen him enjoy anything more than Cucina Italiana’s calamari. Four baskets of bread later, the bowl was so clean of tomato broth that I doubt it was run through the dishwasher later that night.
Portions are large enough to share, but still somehow my man and I always manage to consume an entire basket of fresh bread with one appetizer and two salads before embarking on individual entrées. And further still, we always have room for dessert. Gluttony, pure gluttony. I’m so ashamed.
When choosing dessert you absolutely cannot go wrong with the tiramisu—moist ladyfingers, airy mascarpone cheese and a dusting of cocoa. There will be a fight for the last forkful, I assure you. Finish with an Italian espresso and you’ve got the perfect nightcap. Or, if you’re feeling randy, ask Sonny about his dessert wine. One warning though: if you’ve already consumed copious amounts of Italian wine with your Italian food, as is the norm, the let-me-fool-you-with-my-light-taste dessert wine is a hangover waiting to happen. Trust me on this.
But whatever you decide, bon appetit!
I do not have any connections with this business. I've been here more than ten times.































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